News on SA Clothing Sector

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Thursday, 24 February 2011

Isithebe Clothing Companies Concerned about job losses

South Africa


Vusi Mabuza who is the regional coordinator for clothing businesses in the KwaZulu-Natal north cost induistrial town of  Isithebe said that most of the clothing companies in the city which create approximately 5000 jobs would not be able to meet the Bargaining Council’s Phase-in regulations.

“Nearly all the companies that operate here could face being shut down at the end of March 2011 if they are not 70% compliant in accordance with the new Phase-in model.”

Company owners who spoke to The ReDress Consultancy, said most apparel companies are paying qualified machinists between R300 and R350 per week including provident funds etc.  Mabuza said the entire industry was extremely concerned about the possible closure of factories in Isethebe as the area cannot afford further de-industrialization or job losses. Isethebe is part of the United Clothing and Textile Association.
Read Business Report article.

The ReDress Consultancy speaks to Vusi Mabuza.
24 Feb 2011

Click here to view more videos by The ReDress Consultancy. 

New textile association to argue for lower wages

Ucta seeks to stop closures

SMALL clothing businesses, adamant that they cannot afford to pay the minimum wage agreed at the industry bargaining council, have formed a new association to exert greater influence at the council and as an immediate priority, to avert the looming closure of hundreds of non-compliant firms.

The ReDress Consultancy’s Renato Palmi, who assisted in setting up the new United Clothing and Textiles Association (Ucta), said yesterday that the bargaining council’s plan to phase in the minimum wage was a “big concern”.

Ucta proposes that a qualified machinist should earn R280 a week in a non-metro area and R450 in a metro area.  In terms of the National Bargaining Council for the Clothing Manufacturing Industry, the minimum weekly wage for a qualified machinist is between R451 and R522 in a town, and R740 in a city.

Ucta represents more than 300 companies in Newcastle, Durban, Isithebe and the Free State that employ more than 28000 people.

In December last year the bargaining council stipulated that companies must be at least 70 percent compliant with prescribed minimum wages by the end of March, 90 percent compliant by January next year and fully compliant by the end of April 2012.

But Palmi said man small companies could not afford the regulated wages and would not be able to meet the March deadline. The compliance order gave businesses insufficient time to comply, she(sic) added.
The bargaining council said it would attach the assists of businesses that failed t comply. The consequences would be closures or retrenchments.

“The key is to try to find a way to halt the deadline to save thousands of jobs and businesses,” Palmi said.
Alex Liu, the Chairman of the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce and interim vice-chairman of Ucta, said the intention was to legalise non-compliant companies without closures of job losses.

Liu said lower base wages would enable companies to introduce production incentives.

Johann Baard, the executive director of the Apparel Manufacturers of SA (Amsa), said Amsa agreed with Ucta’s aim to avoid the closure of companies and loss of jobs.

Amsa has agreed to phasing in compliance because members who were paying the minimum wage had been at a disadvantage. It has proposed that new entrants earn R450 a week, excluding benefits, in cities and R285 a week outside cities.

“If unions agree to this proposal 100 000 jobs could be created in the industry in 18 months,” said Baard.  The Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers Union could not be contacted.

Written by Samantha Enslin-Payne
Business Report
Thursday, February, 24 2011

Friday, 18 February 2011

The United Clothing and Textile Association (UCTA)


No 28 Riley Road, off Overport Drive, Essenwood, Durban, South Africa
PO Box 18231, Dalbridge, 4014, South Africa
Telephone: +27 31 2073313 / 3012680 Fax: +27 31 3010231
                                  Email: clothes@ucta.co.za



Chairperson:
Mr. Paruk
Email: ahmedparuk@edengroup.co.za
Cell: 0829666674 / 0313012680


             
Read UCTA News. Click here


Introduction

The United Clothing and Textile Association (UCTA) was formed to bring together, under one umbrella organisation, the various national  clothing and textile organisations and allow this sector, which is  currently non-compliant, to speak and engage with labour, government and within the industry as a unified collective. 

Each of the various organisations such as: The Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the KZN CMT Forum, the Free State Clothing Association, and any other organisation that joins UCTA, will retain their independence.

However, such organisations or individual companies that join UCTA, will be expected to endorse the policies of UCTA as per its constitution.

The objective of UCTA is to promote the interests of its members, to affiliate with and participate in the affairs of any local and international employers’ organisation and to promote, support or oppose any proposed legislative or other measures affecting the interests of its members.  

Membership to UCTA is open to any employer in the clothing and textile manufacturing industry in the Republic of South Africa. The United Clothing and Textile Association has a governing interim constitution and committee, of which, Mr. Ahmed Paruk, is the elected Chairperson, and Mr. Alex Liu is Vice-Chairperson.

The United Clothing and Textile Association feels that it has a legitimate voice and wishes to have meaningful dialogue with the Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers’ Union (SACTWU) and the National Bargaining Council for the Clothing Manufacturing Industry. 

UCTA’s current priority is to find an equable and sustainable solution to the current “Phase-in Compliance Policy.”

The South African Clothing and Textile Sector
UCTA believes that the South African clothing and textile sector can contribute to sustainable manufacturing output, create employment opportunities and skills development and have a meaningful contribution to the economy if it is allowed to operate unburdened by polices that have a detrimental effect on its operational abilities.

UCTA is against exploitation of labour and agrees with most of the terms of the International Labour Organisation’s Decent Work strategy which is centered on people.[1] 

UCTA believes that if action is taken against the hundreds of clothing companies that cannot meet the terms of the “Phase-in Compliance Policy”, thousands more people in South Africa will find themselves unemployed and the financial consequences will prove to be devastating to families, communities and the local and national economy.

Research in industrial relations and union roles indicates that domestic wage-led growth and strategies that are in line with labour productivity are the best route when it comes to collective wage bargaining.[2]

UCTA supports and endorses the initial wage proposal, (which was rejected by SACTWU) that was placed on the negotiating table by the Newcastle representatives. The proposal linked wages to productivity output and UCTA believes that this is still the most suitable option for the clothing sector.

If any company is interested in joining the United Clothing and Textile Association please contact us for a membership form.  


Written by The ReDress Consultancy

@ Updated February 2011

[1] Workers’ Activities Programme (ACTRAV) ILO International Training Centre
[2] Ghosh, J., What does wage-led growth mean in developing countries with large informal employment?, Global Laobur Colum, (34), October 2010









Video: The ReDress Consultancy speaks to UCTA's interim Committee.




    Thursday, 17 February 2011

    Fashion talk with Sonwabile Ndamase

    South Africa, Feb 2011

    The ReDress Consultancy speaks to one of South Africa’s most influential fashion designers Sonwabile  Ndamase, who created the Madiba shirt.   He is also the founder of The South Africa Fashion Designers Association (SAFDA).
    More ReDress Consultancy videos click here.


    Video One:  Sonwabile takes The ReDress Consultancy on a walk about.


    Video Two: Sonwabile talks to The ReDress Consultancy about the fashion district.




    Video Three: The ReDress Consultancy speaks to Sonwabile about media and fashion.




    Monday, 14 February 2011

    Concept Stores in Johannesburg Inner-City


     The ReDress Consultancy spoke to Hector Manto of Hush Concepts Store and how designers from the outer city find it difficult to identify suitable retail space.

    Go to Facebook: Hush Conceptstore 
    Email: hushconceptstore3@gmail.com


    For more videos and stories on Fashion in the inner city click here.


    Filmed by The ReDress Consultancy. 
    Jan 2011.

    Sunday, 13 February 2011

    South Africa's Clothing Sector not bright and shiny for SA government

                                 

    Undressing job creation


    President Jacob Zuma had not yet delivered his State of the Nation address by the time theMail & Guardian went to press on Thursday evening, but it seemed pretty clear that jobs would be its principal theme. 

    Meanwhile, 1 500km away from Parliament, in Newcastle, government, with support from unions and larger garment companies, showed its enthusiasm for employment creation by sending the sheriff to shut down clothing firms that employ about 15 000 people.

    Forget the sheriff; they should have sent teams of experts and economists to study how Newcastle has been able to do it. It could then try to replicate the model in Dundee, Utrecht, Vryheid and every other town and dorp in the country.

    Clearly, new thinking is required. One economist says that you can tell just from the luxury cars in the parking lot that the company will not be competitive in the export market. A government task team to Newcastle would find that some of the factory owners there, far from being fat cats with luxury cars, live in a single room in their factory. This is how they remain in business.

    It would find, too, that wages can be lower where people are able to walk to work. In much of apartheid-designed South Africa, workers pay more than a chunk of change just to get to work and back. The task team, if it got its hands dirty and went to have a closer look, would see that most workers would prefer to earn wages below the industry agreed minimum rather than lose their jobs.

    Every other South African has quick fixes for the jobs crisis. Better education, a weaker rand, lower inflation, skills training and a deregulated labour market are often mooted as solutions.

    All of these would help, but so mired is the labour market in old ways of thinking that even a combination of these factors would still not create a new economic culture in which the country is able to become a winner in manufactured exports, the source of real jobs growth. Structural reform to enhance overall competitiveness is crucial.

    But the government must also acknowledge that it is not up to the job of managing the entire labour market and get out of the way, making it easier for the people of Newcastle and elsewhere to come up with their own flexible solutions to the crisis.

    The fact that our economy, notwithstanding the high levels of unemployment, has been able to absorb perhaps a million Zimbabweans suggests that more flexibility, coupled with the ongoing social programmes government has already in place, may do the trick. It can assist by raising the social wage in success-story areas such as Newcastle by improving basic education, providing skills training, such as through technical colleges, and by upgrading healthcare, the things government is meant to do.

    But we dare say that, given the choice of reopening a newly liberated clothing zone in Newcastle or cutting the rope at Eskom's giant Medupi power station, Zuma and his top team would go for the latter. It's bigger, newer, shinier and more expensive. This is what needs to change. The jobs are in Newcastle.

     Source:
    Mail and Guardian, 11 February 2011

    Friday, 11 February 2011

    The clothing industry wants to provide decent work practices

    The ReDress Consultancy has learnt that the clothing union Sactwu has bought a 32% stake in KWV Holdings.  Maybe, next time the union visits a clothing company they will be brining along a case of wine.
    Spurned suitor Jannie Mouton this morning gave KWV Holdings the flick, selling Zeder’s 22 million shares toMarcel Golding’s Hosken Consolidated International [HCI] for R11.80 a share in cash, 20c less than Pioneeroffered last week.  
    So now the SA Clothing and Textile Workers Union own 32% of KWV. Add to that the empowerment comrades who derailed Pioneer’s bid last week and KWV is now controlled by the previously disadvantaged. Could this be the start of meaningful transformation in the SA wine industry?



    Renato Palmi from the ReDress Consultancy responds a Sunday Times article by Zwelinzima Vavi

     The clothing industry wants to provide decent work practices


    I firmly believe that those, within the clothing sector, “who own the means of production” wish to provide higher wages to their employees (Forging a better deal for SA’S workers, Sunday Times, 6 February 2011). However, the reality is that many of them are operations struggling to survive who find themselves knotted in a thread facing a difficult choice. Do they comply with higher wages and retrench, or do they continue to engage with the clothing union in the hope of finding some equitable solution to the new wage proposal?

     Zwelinzima Vavi needs to engage with the thousands of clothing workers who are facing retrenchment at the end of March, simply because so many of their bosses sincerely cannot afford the wage phase-in proposal. Is Vavi going to be able to reassure the workers that Cosatu and. Sactwu will find them jobs if they are retrenched?

    I could analyse and argue the context of The International Labour Organisation’s Convention on Decent Work, but this is not the right space to do it in. Cosatu and its alliance partner, The Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers’ Union shouldn’t be focusing their energies on the hundreds of small clothing operations that create thousands of jobs and who are at the bottom of the value-chain. Instead, they should be engaging more with “the real elite” who dominate the clothing and textile value chain, meaning the retailers, and seek creative ways to entice these companies to procure more apparel locally. 

    Perhaps then the clothing sector will be in a position to adhere to the ILO’s interpretation of decent work practices, and not see South African jobs lost to countries that have a questionable “broader human rights-based society”.

    Forging a better deal for SA's workers
    Feb 5, 2011  By Another View : Zwelinzima Vavi  SUNDAY TIMES

    Another View : The standards of decent work defined by the ILO are the bare minimum workers can be expected to survive on, writes Zwelinzima Vavi


    The current debate about whether we need to create jobs or create decent work that ensures the protection of workers' dignity and rights as a matter of principle is not apolitical or ideologically neutral.
    On one hand, you have those who own the means of production shouting from rooftops for more labour market flexibility and advancing a "half a bread is better than nothing" ideology. On the other hand are the workers, who are advocating the protection of secure employment.
    Since the beginning of 2009, South Africa has lost 1.17 million jobs, plunging 5.85 million more family members of those jobless workers into the ranks of the poor. The international financial crisis found South Africa already in a deep economic crisis that is decades old.
    Parallel to this newest wave of job losses is the accelerating casualisation of labour and the mushrooming of labour brokers, which is rapidly replacing relatively well-paid and secure jobs with low-paid, short-term employment with no security and no benefits.
    A report by the Adcorp Employment Index revealed that while jobs overall had declined by an annualised 2.41% by November 2010, the number of permanent workers had decreased most, by 2.74%, while the number of temporary workers had decreased by only 1.60%. Meanwhile, the number of "agency" workers (those employed by labour brokers) had increased by 5.59%.
    The survey showed that there were nearly 100000 more labour-broker workers than previously estimated. They now represent 6.8% of total employment and 23.2% of the country's temporary and part-time workforce. This is having a devastating negative effect on the levels of pay, job security and benefits for thousands of workers.
    I wrote this article while attending a meeting of the International Trade Union Council's general council, where delegate after delegate spoke of the phenomenon in almost every country where an employer's response to the financial crisis was simply to substitute previously better-paying and secure jobs with atypical and precarious forms of employment.
    In short, big business wants workers to pay for a crisis created by their own elastic greed. Left alone, employers will bribe every political formation to help advance their argument. This is the context in which we should approach the debate about decent work.
    The International Labour Organisation's Convention on Decent Work commits signatories to support:
    An income which allows the working individual a good life;
    Everybody having an equal chance to develop themselves at work, and no discrimination;
    Proper and safe working conditions;
    Trade unions allowed, and a real say in work-related matters in place; and
    A state-supported social safety net for the sick, weak, elderly and expecting women.
    Most countries, including South Africa, have signed this convention, yet millions of workers around the world work and live in appalling conditions which come nowhere near the reasonable and minimal standards defined by the ILO. South Africa is no exception.
    Cosatu's 10th national congress, noting this dramatic increase in atypical forms of employment, resolved to step up its Jobs and Poverty Campaign for decent work.
    The ANC national conference in 2007 resolved to pursue a programme of economic transformation based on various pillars, the first of which was "making the creation of decent work opportunities the primary focus of economic policies".
    This was followed by the 2009 ANC election manifesto, which identified five priority areas for the next five years, the first of which was "the creation of decent work and sustainable livelihoods".
    This refutes completely the view that there is major difference within the tripartite alliance. The ANC, Cosatu and SACP are all mandated and committed to the creation of decent work. Any statement attacking decent work would be not only a betrayal of the ANC 2009 election platform, but a massive political fraud.
    The government is now debating changes to various labour laws to try to plug the loopholes in the current labour laws, which are supposed to protect workers' rights to decent standards of employment.
    Cosatu is ready to engage with the minister of labour "to deal with the problem associated with labour brokering".
    The biggest problem with labour laws is that they are not being effectively enforced. The Department of Labour has not nearly enough inspectors, and many employers routinely flout the laws and continue to exploit workers, particularly those who are desperate for any kind of job. Some unions are simply not strong enough to enforce the legislative gains.
    The combination of the two weaknesses translates into large sections of workers falling into a category of what is known to be vulnerable workers who are the working poor. These include taxi drivers, security guards, and farm, retail, entertainment and domestic workers.
    The cold reality of the growing number of workers is that the constitution and a plethora of progressive labour legislation are irrelevant. Many employers have simply found new strategies to sideline their obligations not only to workers, but to the environment and broader human rights-based society.
    Yet employers' organisations and their mouthpieces in the Democratic Alliance are foaming at the mouth at the prospect of new laws to promote decent work and protect workers' rights. They have resurrected the absurd argument that employed workers are a privileged elite whose high wages and "inflexible" labour laws prevent employers from taking on new workers and are thus responsible for the high level of unemployment.
    This argument is both factually wrong and economically illiterate. The reality is that the share of wages in national income dropped from 50% in 1994 to 45% in 2009.
    What annoys workers about this propaganda about "privileged" employees is that it comes from the mouths of the real elite, the leaders of big business who have amassed fabulous fortunes and their well-paid spokesmen in the media and universities.
    Between 1995 and 2008, the Gini coefficient, which measures a country's level of inequality, has risen from 0.64 to 0.68, making South Africa the most unequal society in the world.
    The Sunday Times revealed that the number of South African billionaires nearly doubled from 16 in 2009 to 31 in 2010 and that the country's 20 richest men enjoyed a 45% increase in wealth.
    Pine Pienaar, CEO of Mvelaphanda Resources, made R63-million in 2009, 4000 times as much as a farm worker getting the R1316.69 minimum wage.
    On average, the poorest 10% of earners get R1275 a month, which is 0.57% of total earnings, while the top 10% get R111733, which is 49.2% of the total!
    Yet, this super-rich elite bemoan the damage done to the economy by "excessive" wage claims by workers and "inflexible" labour laws and warn us that we cannot afford to implement the ANC's promise of decent work.
    The standards of decent work defined by the ILO are the bare minimum workers can be expected to survive on. No trade union will ever accept that workers should have to live below that minimum and we will fight tooth and nail to not only prevent the deterioration of conditions, but also for bigger increases and tighter, better-enforced labour laws.
    Vavi is general secretary of Cosatu

    Thursday, 10 February 2011

    Fashion is a business

    MBA students to mix it up with fashionistas
    Gibs launch of satellite campus in Joburg city centre hailed as exciting, writes Sue Blaine

    Published: 2011/02/09 
    Business Day

    WHAT most people in the South African fashion industry forget is that it is a business, says Renato Palmi, a director of the ReDress Consultancy, a fashion, clothing and textile industry research and development agency.

    This makes last week’s launch by the Gordon Institute of Business Science (Gibs) of a satellite campus in the heart of Joburg’s fashion district, in the old city centre, particularly exciting, Mr Palmi says.

    " I think it’s a good model…. Look at international designers that have really made a name for themselves, and you will see they have not done it on their own.

    "There is always a business partner…. They keep it quiet, but it’s quite hard to run a business and do all that boring stuff and then be creative on top of that."

    Gibs Dialogue Circle manager Anthony Prangley says the business school settled on nestling its satellite campus in the fashion district because it wanted a place where its students could immerse themselves in "a story of change that was still in progress".

    "It was a particular choice, not necessarily because of the fashion industry, but because we wanted to be part of something, to contribute to something that was still in construction, " he says.

    He was hugely impressed by the "neatness and vibe" around Johannesburg’s fashion district.

    The district — 26 blocks on the eastern edge of the city centre — houses more than 100 fashion- related businesses, including cut, make and trim operators, a budget clothing retail industry, and studios such as designer Clive Rundle’s.

    The Gibs campus is housed in Pritchard Street’s Fashion Kapitol, a building with shops, offices, studios, a restaurant, an outdoor ramp and the Fashion District Institute , a not-for-profit company promoting Jo burg as Africa’s fashion capital.

    While the space provided for young designers to set up shop in the Kapitol is commendable, the perennial problem of limited access to finance limits what can be done, says Mr Palmi.

    Banks are reluctant to fund start-up businesses without proof of sustainability, which makes it difficult for some young designers to even put down the rent for a small studio and set up their business .

    "Also we’re still so, so focused on glamour. You can have a fashion show like the one (international entrepreneur Richard Branson) came to, but how much business was done there? Did the designers sell? What economic benefits did they get? Glamour has a place in fashion, but it can’t be the central focus. You need to invite (potential buyers) to your fashion show, not just the who’s who of Johannesburg," Mr Palmi says.

    This is where Gibs can — and plans to — help. While Gibs has been running the odd training programme from the satellite campus, this action will now "ramp up", says Mr Prangley.

    The pinnacle will be reached when Masters of Business Administration students of Gibs, the University of Pretoria’s business school, work with Kapitol designers on their business models .

    "The reason we’ve moved here is that most of our students think Sandton and the lush lawns of Gibs (main campus in Illovo ) is the business world. There is a much bigger world out there — a gritty, dynamic world. We want our MBAs thinking of business in a dynamic sense as emerging markets become more important," Mr Prangley says.

    With SA’s entrance into the Bric bloc of countries — Brazil, Russia, India and China — interest in the country is increasing. The Bric members are countries deemed to be at a stage of newly advanced economic development.
    "It will be real life experience for their students, and (business training) seminars for small businesses," says Rees Mann , Fashion District Institute acting director.

    " (Gibs’s) presence here will mean we can use their skills, expertise and students to upgrade emerging designers. Gibs thinks out of the box," Mr Mann says.

    In some ways the fashion district that the Johannesburg Development Agency started working on back in 1996 brings Africa’s economic hub full circle.

    This is a point that was underlined by former AngloGold CEO Bobby Godsell when he spoke at the launch of the new campus.

    The garment industry was one of the two "mountains" that made Johannesburg Africa’s economic hub, Mr Godsell said.

    "Johannesburg has an odd origin. There is no geographic reason for it to exist…. The obvious reason is that some lucky man stubbed his toe and found some gold back in 1881….

    "Johannesburg is a place people come to to realise their dreams, to get rich. That is not a bad thing to do, to take your own experience and make it better for your kids."

    The city’s textile industry, now badly affected by the recession and, before that, by imported clothing and textiles, was started in the 1930s to help South Africans weather the Great Depression, Mr Godsell said.

    To really reignite it will take some out-of-the-box thinking.

    Video: Rees Mann talks about growth of informal clothing sector.

    Wednesday, 9 February 2011

    Sactwu fashionably late

    The Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers’ Union put out a call for all politicians to wear proudly South African fashion.

     Hmmm. 

    Calling for support of our local clothing and textile sector on the one side of the needle but prepared to destroy hundreds of small and medium size clothing operations on the other side of the sewing needle. The possible closure of CMTs because they cannot be wage compliant come end of March 2011 will have a detrimental effect on the fashion sector.

    A double stitch talk.

    Furthermore, this call by Sactwu (see below their press release) is  rather late.  

    The ReDress Consultancy way back in February 2009 wrote that South African politicians should be supporting the South African clothing and textile sector. Click here for story.

    And, even further back in 2008 I wrote that our politicians should follow the example of Mrs. Obama. Click here for story.

    So, the call, by Sactwu is nothing new. It should have been done a long time ago and our politicians need to wear  the talk of job creation by buying local. How can we expect consumers to support local when politicians don’t?
    Written by Renato Palmi
    The ReDress Consultancy

    SACTWU Press Release
    SACTWU CALL ON MP'S TO 'WEAR PROUDLY SOUTH AFRICAN' ON OPENING OF PARLIAMENT 
    8 Feb 2011
    The Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (SACTWU) calls on all MP's  and their guests to support jobs in the local clothing and textile industry, by wearing locally manufactured clothing on the opening of parliament. We know that the fashion at the opening of parliament is almost as important as the State of the Nation address of the President. We call on our Ministers, MP's, their wives, girlfriends and partners wearing locally produced clothing on this nationally important occasion. The clothing worn on the opening of the South African parliament should reflect the design and 
    craftsmanship of South African fashion industry workers and companies.  We call on all of them to disclose the label of origin of the clothing that they would be wearing for the event on Thursday this week. 



    Issued by Andre Kriel, 
    General Secretary, 
    Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (SACTWU)