News on SA Clothing Sector

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Friday, 28 January 2011

Davos Unions and Jobs

Trade unions team up with Davos leaders on job creation strategy
Fears over jobless recovery and youth unemployment prompt joint action to help G20 nations develop a coherent plan

Trade unions are working with the leaders of the World Economic Forum on a blueprint to boost employment growth amid growing concerns about the jobless nature of the global economic recovery.

The body that organises the annual gathering of business leaders, politicians and academics in Davos is putting together a white paper designed to help the G20 group of developed and developing nations piece together a jobs strategy.

Fears about the lack of employment opportunities in the west and the potentially explosive consequences of large-scale youth unemployment in emerging economies were one of the themes on the first day of the WEF's annual meeting today.
"The G20 needs to wake up," said Philip Jennings, general secretary of the UNI global union based in Switzerland. "We have to have an inclusive model of growth."
Jennings said five steps were needed: an increase in the share of national income taken by wages; stronger collective bargaining rights for unions; decent labour standards enforced in all parts of the global economy; a universal safety net to protects workers who lose their jobs; and active labour market policies to create work.

"This is more than a cyclical problem, it is a structural problem," said Jennings. "The G20 has to focus on this. There was co-ordination two years ago but now they are at each other's throats. They need to put something together on jobs, because at the moment they are refusing to even put a working party together."
With a report from the International Labour Organisation this week showing that unemployment across the world is in excess of 200 million, unions believe the five-day Davos summit is ideally placed to prompt action on jobs during 2011.

Nicolas Sarkozy, the French president, is expected to put employment and reform of the global financial markets at the top of France's agenda as it begins its presidency of the G20. George Soros, the international speculator, said today that he backed Sarkozy's call for a financial transactions tax that would provide funds to help struggling countries.

Meanwhile, Dominique Strauss-Kahn, managing director of the International Monetary Fund and Sarkozy's possible rival for the French presidency, has indicated that steps to boost employment will be the focus of the fund's spring meeting in April.
Laura Tyson, the former economic adviser to Bill Clinton, said a main reason for unemployment was the lack of demand for labour. She called for both macro-economic and structural measures to create jobs, including more spending on research and infrastructure.
Jennings said it was impossible for the United States, where unemployment is above 9%, to solve its economic problems while the proceeds of growth were taken by a small proportion of the population. He said that 30% of income gains in the US over the past 20 years had gone to the richest 0.1%, with the top 1% capturing 56% of income gains. "The degree of inequality we are seeing is unsustainable," he said.
"Workers need a message of hope and there can't be a return to the economic model that brought the economy to its knees."
Martin Sorrell, the chief executive of the advertising company WPP, agreed that the Davos meeting had to address inequality, particularly in view of the political unrest that led to regime change in Tunisia this month. "Concentration of wealth is a big issue," Sorrell said, noting that inequality peaked in the US on the eve of the Wall Street crash in 1929 and again on the eve of the financial crisis of 2007.

Larry Elliott, economics editor in Davos
The guardian, 26 January 2011

Thursday, 27 January 2011

Good news for textile sector in South Africa

Boost for textile industry as ACA Threads acquires main competitor


Cape Town based sewing thread manufacturer ACA Threads has bought competitor A&E South Africa in a deal which shows faith in the future of South Africa’s often beleaguered textile industry.

A&E is the South African subsidiary of US company American & Efird.

The combined turnover of the two companies is around R70-million per year. Acquired as a going concern, the 55 staff members from A&E’s Epping premises will be incorporated with the 86 staff at ACA Threads Brackenfell factory during the course of the year. 

Eckhard Marshing, CEO of ACA Threads, says the deal will ensure a world class supply base to satisfy existing and growing needs of retail for strong local manufacturing businesses. “There is an increasing trend to look inside of South Africa and its neighbouring countries as the Chinese are starting to retain their goods for their own use, and import prices and logistical challenges attached to importing increase. South Africa is realizing that we need a solid local supply base, and government is supporting the process through its production incentive programs.”

ACA Threads, started by Marshing’s father Herbert in 1953, takes pride in having always maintained a policy of investment in South Africa throughout its years of development, and in having been a pioneer in many fields of its manufacture, with the introduction of the latest and most advanced technologies, thanks to its 40-year association to leading German company the Amann Group. “Fifty years ago we were just starting out, now we are moving into a leadership role in the marketplace,” Marshing says. “I view the deal as giving us the critical mass to afford continued investments into technology, logistics and people and a long-term positioning for Africa’s role in textile manufacturing.”

ACA Threads has signed a licence agreement with A&E International and will combine the A&E and Amann technology and brands to service its Southern African client base that includes amongst other Toyota, Bravo Group, Vitafoam, Seardel, Jonssons Workwear, Jockey, Peter Blond, House of Monatic, Coricraft, Reebok, Bata, Jordan, Watson Shoes and Palm Footwear Group .


Reference:
Newstimes
27 January 2011

Resources from The ReDress Consultancy


Useful resources on clothing, textiles, fashion, labour brought to you by The ReDress Consultancy 
This page will be updated with new info.



LABOUR
Global Union Research Network
Uni Global Union
International Textile Garment Leather Footwear Union
International Labour Organisation
Global Labour University
Australian Labour Studies
Journal of Globalisation
European Trade Union Federation
Australian Clothing and Textile Union
http://tcfua.org.au/

Clothing Textile and Fashion Organisations
American Apparel and Footwear Association
Australian Council of Textiles
Australian Fashion Information
Australian Fashion Council
European Clothing and Textile Confederation
New Zealand Fashion Industry
Brand development and research


Clothing and Textile Industry Development
Knitting Industry Information
Textile Innovation
Textile Market Information
The Textile Quarterly
Information on Cotton
http://www.cottoninc.com/
 
FASHION
Fashion Terminology
http://namebrandapparel.com/blanks_definitions.html
Glossary of Apparel and Embroidery Terminology
http://www.fashionmission.nl/
Fashion Magazines and General Links
informative site
Vintage

Wednesday, 26 January 2011

Sactwu wages and deals

South Africa
This article was published on 15 January 2011.


Sactwu stays firm on wages

Pay deal likely to lead to retrenchments or factory closures

Clothing and textile workers' union Sactwu's insistence on maintaining current minimum wages in the industry is likely to lead to retrenchments, factory closures and relocations to neighbouring countries such as Lesotho and Swaziland, according to industry employers.

 
More than 380 registered clothing factories, employing about 15000 workers countrywide, do not pay minimum wages and are facing shut-down by the Bargaining Council, which obtained writs of execution against the offenders. Matters came to a head in Newcastle in August last year when workers stood in solidarity with owners in opposition to the clampdown on non-compliant factories, indicating their willingness to work for salaries at lower than the regulated levels.

Shortly before Christmas, Sactwu and the Apparel Manufacturers' Association of SA (Amsa), which represents mainly large, compliant factories, agreed to a further extension on the clampdown. All factories will have to pay 70% of minimum wages by the end of March, and be fully compliant by April 2012. Should these targets not be met, the writs will be served and factories closed down.

However, various manufacturers and consultants say factories simply cannot afford the wage model, and are likely to either retrench workers or shut down.

"Our view remains that many non-compliant factories, and currently compliant factories, cannot afford the current wage structure," said Johann Baard, Amsa director.

Amsa has said that wages need to decrease by at least 30% for the industry, which has already shed tens of thousands of job in recent years, to remain viable.

Baard says Amsa had to agree to the Sactwu proposal, or face the potential breakdown of the Bargaining Council and the closure of more than 380 factories.

Sactwu had not responded to queries at the time of going to press.

Renato Palmi, director of The ReDress Consultancy, described the agreement as "upsetting and worrying". It was likely to lead to retrenchments, factory closures and relocations to SA's neighbours - Lesotho, Swaziland and Mozambique - whose governments are wooing investors and where minimum wages are lower, he said.

The agreement also ignores SA's huge productivity problems, Palmi said. Manufacturers were lobbying to implement wage incentives that would encourage increased productivity, including piecework pay, which is standard practice internationally.

Alex Liu, chairman of the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce, whose members employ about 8000 clothing workers, also expressed unhappiness with the Sactwu proposal. According to Liu, up to 40% of non-compliant factories will not be able to pay 70% of the minimum wage by the end of March.

"Why should the Bargaining Council be used as a tool to eliminate competition? Provided the workers are happy with the wages being paid, the Bargaining Council should not have the right to shut down factories," he said.

The expectation is that Amsa will be granted rebates on textile import duties as a "little sweetener" in exchange for the wage agreement.

Marcus Varoli, chairman of Mediterranean Textile Mills, said the introduction of further duty rebates on textile imports "will lead to the final death knell of the textile sector", where less than 10 big mills remain.

Amsa has requested input from textile manufacturers on the proposed rebates by the end of the month, but Varoli fears there won't be enough time for sufficient engagement.

Textile players have not participated in meetings between the clothing industry and Rob Davies, the Minister of Trade and Industry.

Reference:
Jan 15, 2011 11:06 PM
By JANA MARAIS
TIMESLIVE

Tuesday, 25 January 2011

What next for South African clothing union?

South Africa
Only a miracle will stop Sactwu’s suicidal trajectory

THERE is something of a divine symmetry to Economic Development Minister Ebrahim Patel’s predicament. For 10 years, as secretary-general of probably the most inflexible union in the country, he presided over the precipitous decline of the clothing industry from more than 100000 to barely 50000 jobs. Now he has been put in charge of the Sisyphean task of creating 5- million jobs in the next 10 years.

The vengeful gods of politics seem to like synchronicity. Just as the Cabinet met for its recent lekgotla to fantasise about how Patel’s New Growth Path will create 350000 jobs in manufacturing, the clothing industry bargaining council pushed the hara-kiri sword deeper into its own belly.

Dismissing Patel’s request for an urgent rethink of its stranglehold on the clothing industry, the bargaining council decreed that embattled small factories have 15 months in which to become fully compliant or have their assets seized for not paying onerous minimum wages and council levies.

In the bargaining council’s immediate sights are 385 small businesses that employ 20800 workers. But more than half the industry is set to follow. Recent figures show that 1033 businesses are failing to pay the minimum wages and levies, against a compliant minority of 957. "There are companies deeper in the informal sector, working from houses, lounges and garages, and they are right off the radar," says Renato Palmi, an economist and clothing industry consultant.

The bargaining council is of course simply doing what it has been doing very effectively during Patel’s tenure there: accepting union demands that are in no rational way linked to the carnage in the industry, and postponing reform of its dysfunctional wage model and exemption procedure for struggling small businesses. Every year, they have the agreement rubber-stamped by the minister of labour into law for the whole industry, and set about enforcing it, come hell, high water, or tsunamis of cheap imports.

Last August, bargaining council inspectors entered the Newcastle area, home to a few dozen small clothing factories, most of which belonged to the 115-member Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce. The Chinese community in Newcastle — about 800 people in various stages of naturalisation — was first formed when the previous government enticed Taiwanese entrepreneurs to the area as part of its decentralisation policy.

The inspectors wanted to close down two factories, but met an unprecedented wall of resistance. The chamber embarked on a three-day shutdown of their members’ factories, affecting 8000 workers, and called for the immediate implementation of a new wage regime to save jobs: a drop in the high minimum wages, which will allow factory managers to use productivity incentives for the first time. "We wanted to get the attention of the government," says chamber chairman Alex Liu. They certainly did.

Patel, now probably seeing the world a little differently from his union days, quickly organised a moratorium on bargaining council enforcement so the industry could negotiate a new deal. But, sure enough, when the moratorium expired at the end of December, the bargaining council emerged as the same self-devouring monster, agreeing only to a pause between courses.

What drives this absurd behaviour in a country with 40% unemployment? It helps to look at it from the perspective of each of the players — the union, the employers who sit on the bargaining council and the noncompliant small businesses.

The South African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (Sactwu) fought hard for minimum wages through years of sacrifice by activists, Patel included. Yet they are still measly. The minimum wage for a machinist in the nonmetro areas is less than R2000 per month. How do you convince a compliant- sector clothing worker that she actually forms part of a labour aristocracy, and that in order to save and grow the industry, she’s got to accept a cut in remuneration while the boss keeps his BMW?

The minimum wages are not the problem, says Sactwu, they’re the lowest in the manufacturing sector. The problem is rand strength, leaky borders and dumping, and the solution is currency intervention, effective customs control and higher import tariffs.

The situation looks radically different from noncompliant small factory owners. Their clients, the retailers and design houses, are free to place their orders in Swaziland or Bangladesh, with the result that the prices they are willing to pay are so low that the minimum wages make the orders unprofitable. The bargaining council has, quite simply, priced itself out of the market. At the same time there is a long, permanent queue at the factory gate of people who are desperate to be trained up and to work for even less than half the minimum wage.

Besides, says Liu, real wages won’t necessarily fall. His proposal is for a minimum wage for a qualified machinist of R285 a week as basic remuneration. Coupled with a productivity incentive, such as an added payment per garment produced, good workers will be earning more than the current minimums, he says.
The most conflicted position in the industry belongs to the 957 compliant companies represented at the bargaining council, which they run and direct in a voluntary 50- 50 partnership with the union. While the union’s destructive tendencies can be put down to socialist fundamentalism, what madness compels experienced capitalists into a slow dance of death with the union?

The cynical view sees the large clothing companies as a calculating cartel that established the bargaining council system to minimise industrial action and suppress the emergence of serious competition from backyard operations by raising barriers to entry to the industry. When globalisation flooded the world with cheap clothing, many switched to importing, speeding up the demise. The remaining manufacturers started investing in mechanisation and in factories in low-wage neighbouring states. Now, in order to protect these expensive investments, they need the bargaining council more than ever to prevent a low-wage, high-employment regime from developing in SA.

Supporters of this analysis point for example to Seardel , the biggest employer at the bargaining council, which owns Nyenye Clothing in Lesotho, where the wages are said to be less than R750 a month. The fact that Sactwu owns a stake in Seardel is fertiliser for full-blown conspiracy theories.

A more sympathetic view emphasises that only a handful of compliant companies are large. They are panicky and fearful of losing everything in one last apocalyptic strike by the union. They calculate with every incremental union demand that the cheaper option is to agree. Enforcement by the bargaining council inspectorate becomes more important to them lest they be undercut by noncompliant small factories.

Johann Baard, executive director of the bargaining-council employer s’ body, Apparel Manufacturers of S A (Amsa), explains the dynamic: "The last strike we had went into its third week. My phone starts ringing in week two. Then it’s the small guys saying: ‘Johann, another week, and my cash flow runs dry. I’ve got a kid at university and a bond. My entire life depends on this business. Give (the union) that extra 1,5%, it’s not worth the fight."

Baard is adamant that this time the bargaining council employers are actually in full agreement with Liu’s proposal for a wage linked to productivity, but that, once again, in the interest of short-term stability, Amsa acquiesced to the union’s rejection of it, and went along with their demand that noncompliant factories be forced into the fold.

But, says Baard, Amsa is betting that by March, when noncompliant factories have to pay 70% of the minimum wage according to the bargaining council’s new decree to phase in compliance, so many businesses will have failed to reach that bar that closing them down will be politically impossible. The union will then be forced back to the table to negotiate a new wage model.

Even if Baard is right, Amsa’s timid stance is likely to cause the loss of thousands of jobs between now and March, when inspectors will be swaggering into hundreds of struggling factories to deliver a blunt message: You have less than six weeks to get to 70% of the minimum wages or we’ll seize your assets.

There will be retrenchments, relocations to neighbouring states, and closures due to a loss of hope, says Liu.

Noncompliant small factories see little chance of Amsa standing up to Sactwu, whose reaction to any unilateral action by the employers — such as collapsing the bargaining council by walking away — is likely to be a vicious strike that will cripple the compliant companies. Will the government choose in favour of job creation by strong- arming Sactwu off its suicidal trajectory? Only if Patel, the Congress of South African Trade Union s’ point man in government, sells out everything he’s worked for as previous Sactwu leader. In a clothing industry as bizarre as ours, strange things happen, but that would be close to a miracle.

Reference: Business Day
By:  Terblanche 
25 January 2011

Monday, 24 January 2011

Fashion in Johannesburg CBD

Renato Palmi the director of The ReDress Consultancy, visited the Johannesburg CBD in January 2011 to review and evaluate the socio-economic development taking place within the context of fashion design, retail and manufacturing. He was presently impressed with the entrepreneurial sprit and cosmopolitan feel to the inner city.  Watch this space for more interviews and glimpses of the Johannesburg’s inner-city fashion developmental process and hear from the individuals who are breaking new ground in South Africa’s fashion industry.



Fashion District
The district takes up 20 blocks - End Street in the east, Von Wielligh Street in the west, Market Street in the south and Kerk Streetin the north, and is a colourful part of town with shops spilling out their merchandise onto pavements. The northern section of the district as several Art Deco residential blocks, but it is otherwise largely an industrial area with textile factories and clothing shops.

And the area is certainly buzzing: there's around 500 tailors and seamstresses operating from this part of town, either as individual operators or as small factory productions, says businessman Rees Mann, who many believe can take a large measure of credit for the revival in the fashion district. He is also responsible for SewAfrica.
Click here for more:  http://www.fashiondistrict.co.za/

Sunday, 23 January 2011

Police officer killed for stopping illegal clothing imports.

South Africa
Durban: 23 January 2010
 Police are hot on the trail of the businessmen who ordered the hit on specialist policeman Warrant Officer Johan Nortje this week, and disclosed yesterday that the hero cop had made a R100-million counterfeit bust in Durban harbour three weeks ago. It is being investigated whether Nortje’s interception of the consignment of knock-off branded clothing from China could be why he was shot in the driveway of his Montclair home on Monday morning. He was shot twice in the chest and died at the scene. (reference: Sunday Tribune, 23 January 2010)
For more on the story click here.

The South African clothing and textiles workers’ union, government, the clothing and textile industry , researchers and industry commentators have often said that it is illegal clothing imports that is destroying the local industry.Should we not all as one be standing behind the police and supporting them in their endeavours to stop this activity?  Is this not the time for everyone from the union, bargaining council, government, clothing / textile owners and workers to  coordinate some civil mobilization and show that the industry can temporary put aside current disagreements and stand as a collective against such activity that is crippling the industry?  This is opportunity for all stakeholders to show their support to the police and SARS.  

Saturday, 22 January 2011

Will South African clothing companies be closed?

South Africa
22 January 2010

Will South African clothing companies be closed?

 Comment from The Redress Consultancy

Will South African clothing companies that do not comply with the Bargaining Council and Sactwu deadline be forced to close?

Once again, the information being disseminated by the media is ambiguous.
  
South African clothing companies do not have 16 months to comply. They have two months to comply with 70% of the minimum wages or “there will be no lee-way.”

Further confusion arises when AMSA says, that it wants current compliant companies to pay less for new entry-level workers in order for the industry to expand. Why is AMSA saying this, when the union, has rejected the proposal that was first tabled by the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Is AMSA indicating that there is still space for further negotiations?
In another article (Minimum wage threats), see below, AMSA is quoted as saying, “At the end of March many noncompliant factories will have failed to meet the 70% wage target, but it will be politically too sensitive to shut them down.” Is AMSA tactfully sending a message to non-compliant companies that they need not fear being shutdown by the March deadline and thereby extension of their statement non-compliant companies can ignore the Bargaining Council’s threats?

Clothing Plants get 16-month last chance
Clothing manufacturers who do not phase in minimum wages over the next 16 months,will be closed.

Leon Deetlefs, the national compliance manager at the Na­tional Bargaining Council for the Clothing Manufacturing Industry, said yesterday that this phase-in was a reprieve that companies must use.
The council would proceed with writs of execution against companies that did not comply, Deetlefs said. It has obtained 385 such court orders against firms for failing to pay the pre­scribed minimum wage.

Based on an audit done in September 2009, R40 million is owed in arrears wages. A moratorium on proceed­ing with the court orders was lifted in December after the council decided to give compa­nies 16 months to comply with minimum wages by April 2012.

The council resolution stip­ulates that companies will have to pay 70 percent of the mini­mum wage from March, 90 per­cent by January next year and 100 percent by April 2012. If by March companies were not paying 70 percent of the minimum wage "there will be no leeway", Deetlefs said.

The companies would then be expected to pay the backlog in arrears wages. If they failed to do so the sheriff would at­tach and remove their assets, effectively closing them down.

For those that did  comply with the policy the issue of arrears wages would be dealt with at a later stage and they could be written off depending on the decision taken by the council, Deetlefs said.

It was reported earlier this week that members of the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce had threatened to retrench unskilled workers, shut down factories and relo­cate to Swaziland and Lesotho if the minimum wage resolu­tion was enforced. "We proposed to the (bar­gaining council) that they should lower the entry wage to accommodate more workers and to allow the operator to op­erate," said Alex Liu, the chair­man of the chamber.

Apparel Manufacturers of SA executive director Johann Baard said the closure of the 385 companies faced with writs of execution would result in the loss of 15 000 jobs.

Reference:
Business Report
21 January 2011
Samanth Enslin-Payne


 Labour and business need inflation reality check

Business and labour are notoriously slow to adjust to changes in the inflationary environment. Regular surveys by the Bureau for Economic Research (BER) at Stellenbosch University have shown that financial analysts, quizzed on their expectations, routinely come up with lower predictions than business executives and trade union officials.

However, the latter two have finally conceded that inflation could remain within the Reserve Bank’s 3 to 6 percent target range this year. The survey conducted in the fourth quarter of last year showed financial analysts expected 4.5 percent average inflation this year while business and trade unions forecast 6 percent.

This produced an average expectation of 5.5 percent for the year, compared with the 6.1 percent average in the previous BER survey.

Though the Reserve Bank has started revising its inflation expectations upward, its estimate for the year is still much more favourable at 4.6 percent this year (up from a 4.3 percent estimate in November) than the average BER forecast. And private sector economists are making predictions in line with the bank.

Let’s have a reality check. Inflation has been running at less than 6 percent since February last year, which shows the bank and other analysts have a much firmer grasp of reality than business and labour. This may be because inflation allows businesses to hike prices and blame events outside of their control, such as rising input costs. And it allows trade unions to bolster their case for bigger wage hikes. Not that trade unions are constrained by inflation figures – last year wage demands were twice or even three times the inflation rate.

But the fact that two powerful lobbies are out of sync with reality is dangerous because their demands help shape economic policy.

Perhaps some scarce resources should be diverted from schools and universities to training courses for ignorant business and trade union leaders.

Clothing workers
Some clothing manufacturers’ compliance with the minimum wage is as low as 25 percent, others pay closer to the prescribed wage, which for a qualified machinist is between R451 and R740 a week, depending on the area.

But the Apparel Manufacturers of SA (Amsa) wants clothing manufacturers that are compliant with the minimum wage to be able to pay less for new entry level workers in order to expand their factories to take on bigger orders from retailers.

The unions are having none of this, saying that workers in this industry are already among the lowest paid.

If an industry cannot survive unless it pays such appalling wages, is it really one that can be saved? Just how little are people, no matter how unskilled, expected to spend hours working for? Are there not more sustainable and lucrative industries that can be grown to create jobs?
Business, of course, wants to make profit. But so do those who work, that is, profit through their labour by earning enough to survive and live as comfortably as possible. A mere R880 a month does not seem to cut it.

But an entry level position could provide an unskilled unemployed person with an “in” into the job market, a possible stepping stone to better things. If this sector could pay lower wages to entry level workers it could expand and larger factories could take on more orders from local retailers.
Johann Baard of Amsa says in this scenario 100 000 jobs could be created in 18 months. If these companies can’t expand and create more work opportunities, South Africa could face the loss of even more jobs after the hundreds of thousands of jobs lost in the two years across all industries.
As Gwede Mantashe, the ANC’s secretary general said recently, there is nothing decent about being unemployed. More specifically he was quoted as saying there was “nothing more (degrading) than being unemployed”.

Reference:
21 January 2010
 Independent On Line
Edited by Peter DeIonno. With contributions from Ethel Hazelhurst, Samantha Enslin-Payne and Ann Crotty


Minimum-wage threat to factories
Council gives clothing factories 15 months to become fully compliant with minimum wages and levies or face closure

IN A blow to the survival prospects of SA’s clothing industry and to ambitious job-creation targets set by the government, noncompliant clothing factories have been given 15 months to become fully compliant with minimum wages and levies or face closure.

The National Bargaining Council for the Clothing Manufacturing Industry’s order dashes hopes of a much-needed overhaul of the wage regime in the ailing industry. It follows the expiry in December of a moratorium on prosecution by the bargaining council against small companies struggling to meet the minimum wages set by the council.

The moratorium was called by Economic Development Minister Ebrahim Patel after an unprecedented uprising by small businesses in the Newcastle area against a bargaining-council clampdown in August last year.

Noncompliant businesses now have until the end of March to become 70% compliant with the minimum wages prescribed by the bargaining council, and until the end of the year to become 90% compliant. By April next year, they must comply fully.

"Arrears of noncompliant companies will be placed in a ‘suspense account’, which will become payable upon such employer committing a breach of compliance phase-in obligations," a bargaining council resolution says.

Alex Liu, chairman of the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce, described the development as "unfortunate" and warned that mass retrenchment , factory closures and an exodus of clothing factories to neighbouring states would continue. The industry has shed more than 50000 jobs over the past 10 years.
"So far, the feedback from our members has been very negative," said Mr Liu, who speaks for 160 factories employing 18000 staff.

Mr Liu emerged last year as the voice of small clothing manufacturers not represented at the bargaining council. He led a one-day closure of more than 100 small factories to protest at the bargaining council’s threat to shut down two of their members for noncompliance. Workers reportedly joined factory owners to save their jobs from the bargaining-council onslaught.

Following Mr Patel’s call on the bargaining council to halt the prosecution of 385 noncompliant small companies, jeopardising 20800 jobs, hopes were high for a renegotiation of the industry’s dysfunctional wage regime, especially since the established clothing employers that are represented at the bargaining council came out in support of the noncompliant factories last year.
Johann Baard, CEO of Apparel Manufacturers of South Africa (Amsa), which represents compliant clothing factories, says the latest development is not an about-turn by Amsa, nor is it the end of an industry overhaul.

Amsa still agrees with the noncompliant businesses that the only way to save the clothing industry is to drop minimum wages 40%-50% for new workers entering the industry, coupled with productivity incentives.

Mr Baard said that when Amsa failed to convince the South African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (Sactwu) last month to consider a new wage model at the bargaining council, the employers agreed, "under protest", to the phased-in compliance order for the sake of short- term stability. Amsa believes that at the end of March many noncompliant factories will have failed to meet the 70% wage target, but it will be politically too sensitive to shut them down.

Mr Baard said he would then say to Sactwu: "Minister Patel wants to create jobs, President Zuma wants to create jobs, (Trade and Industry Minister) Rob Davies wants to reindustrialise. Now you tell us, union, what are you going to do to those companies?"

Sactwu argues that the woes of the clothing industry are due to rand strength and dumping by eastern countries rather than high wages. It did not answer requests for comment.

Reference:
21 January 2011
Business Day