News on SA Clothing Sector

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Tuesday, 21 December 2010

South African Non Compliant Clothing Companies allowed to operate

South Africa
Breaking News by The ReDress Consultancy

NON-COMPLIANT CLOTHING COMPANIES GET FURTHER RELIEF

Non-compliant clothing manufacturing companies have been granted a further 16 month extension to resolve their non-compliant status, with effect from 1 January 2011. This was agreed between the Southern African Clothing & Textile Workers' Union (SACTWU), the Apparel Manufacturers' Association of South Africa (AMSA) and other clothing employer associations, on Friday last week and fine-tuned on Monday and Tuesday this week.

This agreement was reached as part of the Clothing & Textile Accord process, facilitated under the auspices of Minister Ebrahim Patel's Economic Development Department.

In terms of the agreement, non-compliant companies will be allowed to phase-in to wage compliant status over a 16 month period. In terms of the envisaged phase-in program, they will be required to be at least 70% wage compliant by the end of March next year, with further phase-ins over the subsequent 13 months, culminating in full compliance by the end of April 2012.

This agreement is to be ratified in a formal special meeting of the Clothing Manufacturing Industry Bargaining Council, scheduled to take place on Wednesday 22 December 2010. Non-compliant companies will be briefed there-after, on the details and the required steps for them to take advantage of this relief offer.

This decision constitutes a significant and extremely generous concession to non-compliant companies in the industry. It will have the effect of saving 15 000 clothing industry jobs immediately. These jobs would have been lost in January next year, had the parties opted to execute legitimately obtained writs of execution. On Monday (yesterday), at a meeting held in Durban, 103 non-compliant clothing companies signed a Memorandum of Understanding with SACTWU, committing to this new compliance phase-in program.

No further details will be released, until after Wednesday's Special Bargaining Council meeting.

Thursday, 16 December 2010

FRIVOLOUS FESTIVAL WHILE APPAREL JOBS ARE PURGED

South Africa
16 December 2010

FRIVOLOUS FESTIVAL WHILE APPAREL JOBS ARE PURGED


The squandering of R69-million on the World Festival for Youth & Students could have created or sustained thousands of jobs within the clothing and textile sector. Alternatively, it could have provided much needed capital injection into existing and new apparel and textile operations.

Running from 13 to 21 December 2010, the 17th World Festival of Youth & Students hosted by South Africa, with the theme “Let’s Defeat Imperialism,” has come under severe criticism for exorbitant expenditure on several days of revelry and thin audiences at seminars to be led by guest speakers who have not yet arrived.

According to statements issued on the National Youth Development Agency’s website, the objective of this “festival,” is to “unite the youth of the world and mobilise them around the banner of promoting universal principals of peace, freedom and social transformation to create a world free of human rights abuses and creation of sustainable environments.”

Justifying the donation of R29-million from the Presidency towards hosting the event, President Zuma said: “Young people should be provided the space to contribute to the economic, social and cultural development in their countries.”

ANC Youth League president Julius Malema announced: “We are gathered here today as the world to mark a very important beginning of the fight against imperialism. We are going to engage in this struggle without offering apology to anyone, including Britain, the coloniser” (TimesLive, December 14, 2010).

Is Britain an economic coloniser of Africa? Surely China is the new economic coloniser of Africa? Thousands of jobs in South Africa’s clothing and textile sector have been lost due to cheap Chinese imports. More jobs are under threat from countries like Bangladesh, which is represented at the festival.

Should the youth not be advocating for more skills development opportunities within the clothing and textile sector? Should they not be encouraging the preservation and growth of these sectors in order to promote creation of sustainable environments through development of our own industry?

While some textile companies battle to get funding of just a few million Rand to maintain their operations and stimulate employment, our National Lottery and the President’s office have no qualms about spending millions on an event that will create not one sustainable job.

At the very least, one would hope that the SACP and ANC clothing merchandise for the festival, costing between R50 to R100 and “selling like hot cakes” (News24, December 14, 2010) was all made in South Africa and not by some imperialist nation.

While millions of taxpayers’ money is given to the youth to have a good time, the clothing and textile industry is in serious discussions with government, the Bargaining Council and the Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers’ Union (SACTWU) to find equitable solutions around wages.

Clothing industry representatives say that if the new wage proposal they have put on the table is accepted, some 100 000 jobs could be created. Simply put, the new wage structure for the sector is designed to ensure that a general worker in non-Metro localities can earn R220 a week, and in Metro areas, R300 a week. A qualified machinist working in a Metro-based factory will earn R450 a week.

Based on this wage structure, had the NYDA’s R69-million been allocated to the clothing sector, it could have sustained nearly 3 194 qualified machinist jobs or 6 534 non-Metro general workers’ jobs for a year.

The social and economic impact on these individuals, their immediate communities and on the national economy could have generated tangible returns worth millions more than the amount spent on a festival that is as transient, in growth terms, as the 2010 FIFA World Cup.

Written by Renato Palmi
The ReDress Consultancy

Monday, 13 December 2010

South African Clothing Union Comments on Patel's Growth Policy

12 DECEMBER 2010
PRESS RELEASE: IMMEDIATE

SACTWU NATIONAL EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE PRONOUNCES ON THE NEW GROWTH PATH

The Southern African Clothing & Textile Workers' Union (SACTWU) has convened a Special meeting of its National Executive Committee (NEC) to consider government's New Growth Path (NGP), in preparation for the Special Central Executive Committee (CEC) meeting convened by COSATU for 14-15 December

2010. The SACTWU NEC is our union's highest decision-making body, after our National Congress. Our Special NEC was held last week in Durban.

The SACTWU NEC has welcomed the NGP as a decisive break from the unilateralism of the previous Growth, Employment & Redistribution (GEAR) policy, and from GEAR's restrictive macro-economic substance. Our NEC was appreciative that unlike GEAR, which was imposed as a non-negotiable fete-a-compli economic growth plan for our country, the NGP promotes social dialogue about how best to shape both its content and its implementation processes. Unlike GEAR, our NEC noted, the NGP places job creation at its centre, promotes a looser monetary policy stance, commits to fiscal growth in real terms (despite its mention of fiscal restraint) and contains enough indications of an expansionary fiscal stance (for example, in addition to its firm fiscal real growth commitment, the NGC contains elements which could unleash billion of rands for additional off-budget fiscal expenditure directed at job creation which, in reality, amounts to an expansionary fiscal policy framework wider than the actual 2% annual real fiscal growth
currently envisaged in the NGP).

On the NGP proposal for a price-wage-savings social pact, our NEC has taken the same stance as that contained in the final Declaration of the Civil Society Conference convened by COSATU in September this year: that the concept of a social pact in itself must not be rejected but that the commitments in its final content would determine whether or not it is acceptable. For example, a government commitment on capping administered prices (as offered by the NGP) such as inflation-linked electricity price increases, could bring welcome relief from high electricity price increases recently imposed on workers, industry and the poor. The wage capping bands proposed bear no real practical danger for workers in the clothing, textile and leather industry, as in reality their minimum wages are the lowest in the whole of the South Africa manufacturing industry. But any attempt to water down worker rights and interests will be firmly rejected.

Our NEC has noted some concerns in the NGP, but have concluded that these should be brought to COSATU's attention as part of a package of concerns in the NGP to be addressed in the engagement process with government and other stakeholders, but that these concerns in itself are not of such a nature
that it would warrant a rejection of the NGP.

The SACTWU NEC has noted the army of very vocal and alarmist rightwing  attacks on the NGP, noted concerns raised by other COSATU affiliates, measured the NGP against the Polokwane resolutions and the COSATU growth path proposal released in September, has rejected BUSA's call for an NGP which is less state interventionist and has concluded that the balance of forces in the current conjuncture are of such a nature that the NGP provides labour with its best opportunity, since the unilateral imposition of GEAR, to decisively shift and re-direct economic policy to address the most pressing challenge of our time: decent job creation.

Issued by
Andre Kriel
General Secretary
SACTWU


14 November 2010

PRESS RELEASE
'PATEL PROCESS' IS BROADER THAN JUST THE NEWCASTLE MATTER

The Southern Africa Clothing & Textile Workers' Union (SACTWU) is amused at the widespread misconception that the 'Patel Process' is simply confined to resolving the issue of threatened factory shutdowns in Newcastle due to the illegal wages being paid there. This is just one of the many mushrooming
recent misconceptions about what is happening in the fashion manufacturing industry which, if left unchallenged and uncorrected, could soon be accepted as truth. The issue evolved very differently to what is now being publically reported:

Minister of Economic Development, Ebrahim Patel addressed our union's National Congress in September this year. Our Congress was vexed with the difficulties which the industry is experiencing and what to do about it. In fact, our Congress theme was just that: "A new growth path for decent work in the clothing, textile, footwear and leather industry".

The idea of an industry accord to address the many developmental challenges faced by the industry, including productivity, forms of work organisation, trade issues, industrial policy, matters amongst others, emerged from these discussions at our National Congress and was finalised at our union's National Executive Committee meeting held in early November. In discussion with clothing employers, it was agreed to also include the problem of non-compliance as part of the Patel Process. It is just one of many issues
to be considered, and certainly not the only one.

Attempts by many public commentators and some employers to narrow the Patel Process to simply addressing the Newcastle wage non-compliance matter is a serious disservice to the industry. SACTWU has absolutely no intention of focusing its agenda narrowly, simply on the Newcastle matter. The industry's challenges are much broader than that.

Issued by
Andre Krel
SACTWU

Wednesday, 8 December 2010

ReDress Interview with China Labour Bulletin

The ReDress Consultancy speaks to China Labour Bulletin’s Communications Director Geoffrey Crothall on labour and wages in China.




The China Labour Bulletin is a non-governmental organization founded in Hong Kong in 1994, China Labour Bulletin has grown from a small monitoring and research group into a proactive outreach organization that seeks to defend and promote the rights of workers in China. It have extensive links and wide-ranging co-operative programs with labour groups, law firms and academics throughout China, as well as with the international labour movement.

Through these programs, China Labour Bulletin supports the development of democratically-run trade unions, encourage respect for and enforcement of the country’s labour laws, as well as the full participation of workers in the creation of civil society. They seek the official recognition in China of international standards and conventions providing for workers’ freedom of association and the right to free collective bargaining.

CLB founder and director Han Dongfang (韩东方) has been an advocate for workers’ rights in China for more than two decades. He first came to international prominence when, as a railway worker in Beijing, he helped set up China’s first independent trade union, the Beijing Autonomous Workers’ Federation (BAWF), during the Tiananmen Square protests of 1989. He was expelled to Hong Kong in 1993; where the following year he set up CLB

Communications Director Geoffrey Crothall manages CLB’s websites and is the organization’s spokesman. He first worked in China in 1984, and spent five years in the 1990s as the South China Morning Post Correspondent in Beijing. Chinese website editor Cai Chongguo (蔡崇国) was exiled from China after 1989, and since then has been a tireless advocate for workers’ rights in China, working closely with trade union groups and NGOs in Europe and across the world.



The ReDress Consultancy's interview with Geoffrey Crothall of China Labour Bulletin
@ 7 December 2010

ReDress: There is still a perception from South Africa that wages in the Chinese clothing and textile sector are extremely low (slave wages) however, there are signs that this is changing and wages are increasing. What, in your opinion brought this change and in comparison to China’s neighbors such as Cambodia, Bangladesh, Vietnam are the wage higher or lower?

CLB: Wages are certainly increasing in China but the wages of the poorest paid workers are not increasing as fast as average wages. The minimum wage in nearly all parts of China is still far from being a living wage. The recent increases in wages have largely been brought about by pressure from the workforce, in the form of strikes etc, and by government moves to boost wages in order to increase domestic consumption. I would say wages in many parts of China are already higher than in Cambodia, Bangladesh and Vietnam.

ReDress: It is my understanding that union activity is still restricted and that there is only one union in China is this correct?

CLB: The sole legally mandated trade union is the All-China Federation of Trade Unions. 
See link for more details:
http://www.clb.org.hk/en/files/share/File/research_reports/acftu_report.pdf
ReDress: I have read that collective bargaining is beginning to take shape in China, do you know if this is happing in the clothing and textile sector?

CLB: The government, at various levels, is talking about collective bargaining but there is still no real system in place that encourages or even allows genuine worker participation in the process. The only collective bargaining that happens in China is when workers go out on strike and management or local government officials urge them to negotiate.

ReDress: Are you not afraid that China’s market advantage through low wages will result in a decline in the clothing and textile sectors, which could result in retrenchments?

CLB: The textile sector in China seems to be moving more towards automation anyway, which is reducing the number of low-paid labour intensive jobs. But many of those laid-off are able to find alternative employment in other industries.

ReDress: Do you feel that it is the global market / buyers that continually push down prices and force the manufacturers to accept even lower prices, which result in lower wages for the workers?

CLB: That certainly seems to be the case.

ReDress: Do you think that China is trying to change the perception that they produce cheap good with cheap labour and have plans to move production (quality) up the value-chain?

CLB: There are certainly cities and regions in China that are trying to move up the production value chain, Shenzhen is the most obvious example. However, there are still many poorer, inland regions that still rely on poorly paid and unskilled labour to produce low value products.

ReDress: How would your organization respond to the argument that wages levels should be linked to productivity?

CLB: Wages should be determined through a process of collective bargaining. If the two parties at a bargaining session agree that wages can be linked to productivity then that should be reflected in the final collective labour agreement

ReDress: The South African clothing sector has proposed a new wage model. It basically proposes that new entrants into the clothing sector should receive a minimum lower wage than is currently prescribed by the government to allow employment growth and the industry to grow. The South African clothing sector argues that their proposal will create 1000s of new jobs. As a labour organization, how would you respond to such a proposal?

CLB: I don’t know enough about this issue to make a judgment. But, certainly, suggesting that workers get paid less than the legal minimum wage is unacceptable, especially if the minimum wage is already at a very low level, as is the case in China.


Ends.


Tuesday, 7 December 2010

Textile firms fume over China rival

South Africa

The textile industry is seething over the accreditation of a Chinese company by the SA Bureau of Standards (SABS).
Marcus Varoli, the chairman of Mediterranean Textile Mills, said yesterday that the granting of a certificate of approval by the SABS and the Department of Trade and Industry (dti) to a Chinese textile mill for work wear fabric, in turn being imported for use in the mining industry, undermined efforts to revive the textile sector.
“By giving a Chinese textile mill an SABS stamp of approval on their fabrics, you are taking jobs from South Africa to China. It gives a bigger opportunity for China to enter South Africa,” Varoli said.
He said this decision would harm the sector further and give Chinese companies an advantage over local ones.

“We have a serious unemployment problem in the country and the dti is aware of this. In 2009, we were talking about production incentives and now this. Already, the labour rates are cheaper in China and the fabric is R5 or R6 cheaper a metre,” Varoli said.
Varoli said the fabric firm first heard about the application to the SABS six months ago and approached the department to express its concern.
“At first, we (the textile delegation) were told that a junior technician made a mistake, and that something illegal had happened and that legal steps were being taken. We accepted that.
“When we followed up (with the dti), we were told that it was difficult for them to control the SABS because it was self-funding and if it has to go to China to raise the funds, then that is what they will do,” Varoli said.
He quoted the SABS as saying that the Chinese mill had been accredited because it had secured the business and the local companies had not.
The SABS said it would not comment because there were currently discussions on the matter with the industry and the dti and those discussions were at a sensitive stage. The department did not respond to request for comment.
Renato Palmi of Redress Consultancy said: “Here we are trying to create employment, find mechanisms to realign both the clothing and textile sector, and we have the added pressure of the clothing union and the bargaining councils threatening to close factories. But we have the very same government allowing (a) Chinese mill to carry a quality assurance stamp and import textiles. Something is clearly not right and I think the industry needs an explanation.”
Varoli has written to Ebrahim Patel, the Minister of Economic Development, in which he raises a number of issues concerning the textile and the clothing sectors, including the SABS decision. He said the industry wanted to work with the government.
“What we are questioning is: is it prudent to have this situation, is it something that they can rectify or reverse?” Varoli explained.
Zubeida Jaffer, a spokeswoman in the Department of Economic Development, said: “The letter will receive attention from the minister. At this point, it is not appropriate to comment.”
December 7 2010
By Slindile Khanyile 
Business Report

Saturday, 4 December 2010

Letter to Minister Patel from Textile Owner

South Africa

The ReDress Consultancy releases this letter addressed to Minister Patel from the owner of one of the few remaining South African textile mills. The letter highlights a number of concerns but it also breaks a very disturbing story concerning the SABS and a Chinese textile mill.

The SABS refused to comment on the story after being approached by The ReDress Consultancy. We can confirm that the clothing and textile union Sactwu, have already met with the SABS and will be having a further meeting next week.

The ReDress Consultancy feels that this letter highlights some important issues that have not been raised in the current discourse pertaining to the restructuring of wages within the clothing and textile sector. We will shortly be posting the letter on our website and encourage your comments. We also, provide you with the contact details of the Minister’s office.

Ministry of Economic Development

Private Secretary: Ms Aldene Appolis
Tel: (021) 466 9800 / (012) 394 1006
E-mail: ministry@economic.gov.za




Patel’s plan between a rock and a hard place.


As the owner of one of South Africa’s few remaining textile mills it is clear to me that minister Patel’s new growth plan is between a rock and a hard place. I welcome the new plan and its ambitious targets, however, there are some issues and concerns relating to the growth plan that need to be taken into account.

While the minister is involved with a developmental plan to establish an accord with the textile and clothing industries he must take into consideration the significant negative influence that has resulted from globalisation and a free market economy in these industry sectors.

It is imperative that the minister acknowledges the ongoing erosion and damage that has and is occurring due to the inability of the authorities to control illegal and under-invoiced goods. One solution to eradicate this scourge that plagues the industry is to introduce specific duties on imports and to ignore some aspects of WTO regulations, as Brazil, Turkey and Egypt have done. This system of duties discourages under invoicing and curtails the importation of distressed goods.

The fact that the clothing sector, despite the numerous incentives afforded them, are now advocating for duty rebates on fabrics not made in South Africa will lead to the final death knell of the textile sector. I am concerned that the authorities will not be able to monitor and manage this proposal and we may experience a surge of false declarations and under-invoicing of textile imports.

The fact that we are having to compete with Asian companies that are heavily subsidised, the lack of capacity by our authorities to curb illegal imports, the volatile currency, and uncompetitive labour market, creates a fertile environment for traders and retailers to cruelly exploit the best deals available to them, in a globalised market.

It is common knowledge that a single trader equipped with a computer and an air ticket can seal deals that have immense collateral damage to both the apparel and textile manufacturing sectors. A single trader who does not create significant employment can wipe out a swathe of local businesses.

It is my concern that in order to address the chasm created between the compliant and non-compliant sections of the clothing industry, minister Patel seems intent to force non-compliant companies to abide by the bargaining regulations, by placing barriers, that precludes them from taking advantage of the intended rebates. In effect, this will allow for further instability and unfair competition within the apparel sector as compliant companies will be in a position to import cheaper fabric at the detriment of the local textile industry.

The fact that the very government, which is attempting to find a way forward for these distressed sectors has allowed state institutions like the South African Bureau of Standards (SABS) to accredit a Chinese textile mill the license to produce and export fabrics for workwear that is used in the mining sector, to carry its seal, instead of supporting the local textile sector, is of serious concern.

I would like the esteemed minister to consider the following as a way forward:

All trading of imported goods should be confined to bona fide manufacturers in the different disciplines. By way of an example, spinning mills would trade in yarns, textile mills in fabrics and clothing manufacturers in clothing. The objective here is to cross-subsidise so as to grow the manufacturing base. In order to ensure that the manufacturing base is not diluted in favour of trading, a system is derived whereby the quantum of trading is linked to employment levels, remunerative contributions, training and manufacturing output etc.

I think that this proposal would go someway to stemming the tide of deindustrialization.

Mr. Marcus Varoli Chairman

MEDITERRANEAN TEXTILE MILLS (PTY) LTD.
Tel +27 31 736 2015  Ÿ  Fax +27 31 736 1497 
 E-mail  medtext@mtm.co.za
 Web    http://www.mtm.co.za/


Reference: The ReDress Consultancy @ 4 Dec 2010

Wednesday, 1 December 2010

Comment on South Africa's New Growth Plan by the DA

TIM HARRIS: New Growth Path

New economic plan will lead us down the road to poverty


PARLIAMENTARY legend has it that President Jacob Zuma ’s office was stormed on the morning of May 10 last year — the day the Cabinet was to be announced — by a delegation of unionists demanding a senior economic ministry for their man, in exchange for supporting Zuma’s bid for the Presidency. The story goes that this is the reason the announcement was delayed.

Whether Ebrahim Patel was indeed appointed Economic Development Minister in such a chaotic fashion is difficult to confirm, but it has become clear that his ministry was simply bolted on to the existing economic portfolios with little more than a vague mandate to "make economic policy".

Beyond the obvious questions about overlapping ministerial responsibilities, there is a serious concern about Patel’s appropriateness for such a job. One respected economist commented recently to me that "the only thing he’s done before is destroy the clothing and textile sector". This is an obvious reference to his previous role as the head of that sector’s main union, the South African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (Sactwu).

The clothing sector is not quite destroyed yet, but it’s on its last legs. I recently met workers in Newcastle, KwaZulu-Natal, who are forced to be members of Sactwu in a closed-shop arrangement. They told me they couldn’t understand how the union and bargaining council can be working so hard to close down factories because of noncompliance with centrally determined provisions. They would rather keep their "noncompliant" jobs than see the factories closed.

Following my visit, Patel declared a moratorium on factory closures until next month, when he claims he will broker a consensus to save the industry. I can only hope he will consult more broadly than he appears to have done in developing the New Growth Path document that was released on Tuesday.

It is clear Patel faces two main problems with his New Growth Path: the first is economic, and the second is political.

Economically, the document is something of a c urate’s e gg: part good and part bad but, as a result, entirely spoiled. The key issue is that the document envisions a scaled-up role for the state in all sectors of the economy without acknowledging that our public service has been so crippled by cadre deployment that we are a million miles away from the accomplished and efficient bureaucratic elite required to skilfully manage such broad interventions. Involving an incapacitated state so deeply in our economy will put us on a path to poverty, not a path to growth.

The three clearest examples of intervention that will take SA backwards are the proposed state-owned mining company, the state-owned bank, and the cap on pay and bonuses for senior managers and executives (which seems to exclude public servants).

SA already has a state-owned mining company; it’s called Alexkor and it has posted losses of R275m and shed 85% of its employees over the past 10 years. The state has no place in mining, aside from recouping royalties and taxes from private companies. The same applies to banking: our financial sector can step up to our developmental challenges. The last thing we need is taxpayers’ money crowding out private capital in the banking sector.

Equally, while the proposal for a "social pact" to moderate wages is a good one, the component whereby pay and bonuses for senior managers and executives would be capped is madness. We need to tackle inequality by extending opportunity to those without, and subsidising young job seekers, not by driving small business owners and skilled managers abroad with salary caps.

Parts of the document are good: all reasonable South Africans will applaud the proposals for reform of black economic empowerment, competition policy, and small business regulation and financing. And it has an awareness of economic trade-offs often lacking from government publications not produced by the National Treasury.

Overall, the bad parts of the New Growth Path taint the economic viability of the entire plan and represent a clear threat to SA’s future growth. The most obvious threat to the document itself, however, is political.

Patel is clearly aware that his mandate overlaps substantially with the trade and industry, finance and planning ministries. In some respects he has tried to secure the policy high ground: shoehorning in a preview of the New Growth Path hours before Finance Minister Pravin Gordhan’s medium- term budget policy statement last month, as if to show who is really calling the shots.

But he has also made mistakes. Failing to consult the National Economic Development and Labour Council, or the business sector, before Tuesday’s release has turned them against the plan. Consulting labour one day before the release had a similar effect.

But the real opposition could come from his Cabinet colleagues and Reserve Bank governor Gill Marcus. On Wednesday, I challenged them to public ly support the document, and the silence has been deafening. We can only assume, therefore, that Patel’s lonely seat at the announcement of the plan shows a lack of support from the "absent" economic leaders, who have actual influence over macro, micro and monetary policy, and control the state’s purse strings.

One example is that most of the good ideas in the plan cannibalise the responsibilities of Trade and Industry Minister Rob Davies . The plan also reduces his industrial action plan to a plan to turn around manufacturing, doing it a serious disservice.

It also stomps all over Gordhan’s mandate — as defined in the Public Finance Management Act — to set economic policy and define a fiscal framework.

It airbrushes out Gordhan’s youth wage- subsidy proposal, commits the state to a specific fiscal policy stance and new infrastructure expenditure, and alludes to firm currency interventions.

Alarmingly, it rides roughshod over the independence of the Bank, enshrined in the constitution, by committing the governor to looser monetary policy. It subverts Planning Minister Trevor Manuel ’s responsibility for long-term planning and wipes his Growth, Employment and Redistribution strategy from the slate of history by referring only to the Reconstruction and Development Programme and the Accelerated and Shared Growth Initiative for SA.

Perhaps Shakespeare would have identified in Patel, instead of Macbeth, a "vaulting ambition, which o’erleaps itself, and falls on the other". The silence from the minister’s Cabinet colleagues seems to suggest they are not planning to help catch him.

The Democratic Alliance (DA) agrees with the ends of the plan: we need to accelerate gross domestic product growth from an anaemic 2,6% to the 6%-plus experienced by comparable economies, and we need to create millions of jobs, especially for young South Africans. But we do not believe that Patel’s proposal represents a realistic or implementable plan to do this. The state simply does not have the capacity.

Instead, international experience has proved that the best way to drive growth is for the state to actively dismantle constraints, not to intervene further in the economy.

Equally, the best way to tackle unemployment is to reform labour market regulations directly, or indirectly through proposals such as the youth wage subsidy.

Policies such as these will put SA on a growth path to prosperity. Patel’s plan represents the path to poverty.

- Harris, MP, is the DA’s shadow minister of trade and industry.
Business Day, 26 Nov 2010

SA Clothing Industry responds to clothing union article

Apparel Manufacturers Association responds to Sactwu 
In response to Mr Andre Kriel’s letter of 17th November,  I must correct some of the misconceptions the General Secretary of Sactwu appears to hold. These are global competitive realities, the successes in our neighbouring countries where the clothing industry is growing and the bitter battle we as employers have fought over the past 25 years to get the union to cross the rubicon from the  land of guaranteed wages to the land where there are requirements for counter-performance from its  membership in the workplace.

Globally, the past four decades have witnessed the migration of labour intensive manufacturing from high to low labour cost locations.  This reality is unfolding in China today where the clothing manufacturing sector is moving to the rural areas and across their borders to lower wage destinations such as Vietnam. China’s economy  consciously chose a competitive wage strategy to draw unemployed and low skilled people into the formal economy in order to develop the country's industrial base. With concomitant policies for skills development, massive investment in education and training, this and other economies had within one generation progressed up the manufacturing value chain where the children of clothing factory machinists (and others) today work as technicians and engineers in high-tech global brand establishments. Why is this so difficult for our trade union leadership to comprehend? 

It was the result of repeated rejection of our employer proposals to link wage increases to worker productivity which led to top level mediation and facilitation and to the acceptance for the need that business as usual in collective bargaining was leading the industry to assured destruction. During the course of the annual wage negotiations immediately following this facilitation, the employers expressed their disappointment that the union was only prepared to link 0.5% of the increase agreed to, to plant level productivity agreements. In reality this compromise amounted to no more than a gesture.

The fact that only a few companies managed to secure such agreements was attributable to three reasons. Firstly that the 0,5% was far too little to serve as a real incentive to employees. We warned the union about this.  Secondly, our members experienced varying degrees of resistance from shop stewards and employees to engage positively and constructively.  Thirdly, the majority of our membership consists of small to medium enterprises where the owner fills multiple roles simultaneously. These establishments simply do not have the capacity, time or resources to engage with shop stewards and union officials in endless consultations to try and achieve a productivity dispensation which 'rewards' employees the 'handsome sum' of 0,5% of their last increase.

Given that we are now both faced with do or die choices, the employers remain hopeful that bold leadership may still save the day for our sector.
Not only is this important for industrialisation and job creation, but also due to the distinct national interest value of getting our priorities, values and vision aligned.  When labour intensive manufacturing continues to decline in a country with one of the highest levels of unemployment in the world, the inevitable conclusion one must come to is that labour market and industrial policy is failing. Either behaviour must change or government policy must change.

The employers agree with Mr Kriel that the current woes of the industry cannot be laid at the door of labour cost alone. We are making encouraging progress in dealing with a wide range of policies and related interventions which fall outside the ambit of the labour market. The reality however is that when we fail to get all the links in the competitiveness chain appropriately adjusted to changed circumstances, the weakest link may very well cause the promise of success in securing the bigger picture of manufacturing growth and job creation, to remain nothing more than a dream.

The good news is that different outcomes are within our grasp. We have a unique window of opportunity to take collective responsibility as the stakeholder leadership to avert being judged very harshly by history.

Johann Baard
Executive Director
AMSA

Click here to read another response to Sactwu’s article.