News updates: South African clothing companies and Bargaining Council

News updates: South African clothing companies and Bargaining Council

Disagreement closes 85 factories

The National Clothing Retail Federation said yesterday that it was of huge concern to everyone in South Africa - employee, employer and consumer - that the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce was closing 85 Taiwanese and Chinese factories in response to a dispute with the bargaining council. Click here to read more.

Sactwu to seek relief for 'illegal' lockouts in Newcastle

THE SOUTHERN African Clothing and Textile Workers' Union (Sactwu) is instituting legal action against the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce for shutting its factories, saying this contravenes the Labour Relations Act.The union, which has 5 000 members in Newcastle, said it wanted to claim wages for its members for the days that the factories had been closed by the owners. Click here to read more.

Union seeks to force Newcastle factory owners back to work

Both the union and factory owners in Newcastle call for emergency government intervention after owners close factory doors citing unreasonable demands by the National Bargaining Council. Click here to read more.

Wage blitz stitches up clothing factories

As Zuma woos Chinese investors, Asian companies are shut down

YELLOW Street in Newcastle’s Madadeni township was eerily empty on Wednesday after clothing factories there, which employ about 3000 workers, shut down in sympathy when a sheriff closed two Asian-owned companies in the town on Tuesday. Click here to read more.

Decent work – Newcastle

As over 1m public-sector workers prepared to strike for wage increases double the inflation rate, clothing workers in Newcastle earning as little as R90/week took up arms to prevent officials from closing down the mostly Chinese-owned sweatshops where they work. Click here to read more

Newcastle textile factories ‘working on minimum-wage plans’

Clothing factory closures spread
Chinese owners call on provincial MEC to intervene in talks

Free State intervenes in rag trade wages dispute

Clothing sector seeks talks wrap (5th Steptember 2010)
Clothing manufacturers and labour union Sactwu will meet the directors-general of various government departments tomorrow to try to settle a dispute over a minimum wage. To read more click here.

                                                                      Photos by: Renato Palmi

Statement from Apparel Manufacturers of South Africa and non-compliant companies

CLOTHING INDUSTRY BARGAINING COUNCIL COMPLIANCE ENFORCEMENT

An intolerable consequence of non-compliant manufacturing activity is that such employers enjoy significant competitive cost advantages against those employers who are compliant with the collective agreements of the National Bargaining Council. AMSA’s affiliated members have been suffering significant commercial prejudice from unfair competition for some time already and the developments in Newcastle yesterday materially exacerbates this prejudice. The situation is not sustainable. This not only translates into real and direct prejudice to compliant employer parties, but also jeopardises the job security of our members’ employees who are employed under conditions of 'decent work'.

AMSA and its affiliated members have no desire to shut down the operations of non-compliant employers. We desire a situation where all employers are fully compliant, allowing their employees to enjoy the benefit of fair labour practices whilst at the same time also achieving parity with regard to the conditions in which the various employers compete against each other. Leaving non-compliant manufacturing unchecked will directly lead to compliant factories being forced to retrench and/or close down as a consequence of losing work to the wide-spread non-compliant manufacturing activity in our sector. It is unacceptable that compliant employers and employees contracted under conditions of 'decent work' are the ones who are at risk under such circumstances.

The argument that seeks to preserve the employment of those that are employed under intolerably unfair conditions by non-compliant employers just so that the shutting down of such employers does not lead to any further job losses, is as illogical as it is capricious. To sacrifice a complying industry employing tens of thousands of workers under conditions of ‘decent work’, so that employees of non-compliant employers can continue to remain employed in oppressive circumstances, is unconscionable to say the least.

We are committed to search, together with SACTWU, for appropriate policy measures, which would facilitate and bring about a fair and equitable basis upon which fair labour practices and fair competition are achieved with zero to minimum consequences in respect of job losses. However, until such time as an agreed alternative wage model for the industry has been achieved, it remains intolerable to protect non-compliant jobs at the expense of 'decent jobs'. It furthermore amounts to a position which is not only inconsistent with current Government policy and the purpose of the Labour Relations Act , but is also in conflict with the public interest in so far as job creation and poverty alleviation is concerned.

Johann Baard
Executive Director
Apparel Manufacturers of South Africa (AMSA)
Telephone: 021-4181913/4

The ReDress Consultancy

Press Statement: Newcastle Chinese Chamber - re clothing companies

Date: 30 August 2010

Press Statement


Following a joint meeting held at 17:00 between the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce and Industry, The Newcastle Chinese Clothing and Textile Association and the Newcastle Taiwanese Chamber of Commerce, it was decided that all the clothing and knitwear companies in Newcastle will re-open on the 31st August 2010.

This decision was taken in good faith after feedback has been received from both the Union and the Bargaining Council that Provincial and possible National intervention is going to take place in the clothing and knitwear sector.

Meetings will now be held on a national basis to address the problems in the sector and to try to come up with an amicable solution that will be agreed by all parties involved in this sector.

For further information please contact Alex 0837758329

Published by The ReDress Consultancy

The South African Clothing Bargaining Council has been challenged before

South Africa

The current stand-off between clothing manufacturers in Newcastle and the Bargaining Council has occurred before in KwaZulu-Natal. In 2005 The Natal Clothing Manufacturing Association (NCMA) refused to participate in Bargaining Council wage talks unless the Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (Sactwu) agreed to discuss a proposed two-tier wage model.

NCMA stated that they were taking such action because there was an urgent need to seek some form of relief for its members and that there was scope for realistic flexibility in wage negotiations.

NCMA said that the clothing sector had undergone a high rate of casualisation which has resulted in the migration of jobs into the cut-make-and-trim (CMT) sector and it is these companies that need some space around Bargaining Council regulations. The Eastern Cape Clothing Manufactures’’ Association also took the same action as the NCMA.

In 2008 a coalition of cut-make-and-trim manufacturers in Durban was formed to engage with the South African Bargaining Council (BC) on numerous issues. The coalition called on the BC to revisit rates and address unnecessary intimidation from the BC because they were non-compliant. For more on this story click here.

In September 2009, 55 000 members of the Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers’ Union went on strike to demand decent wage increases.

The ReDress Consultancy, 30 August 2010

Since The ReDress Consultancy broke the story last week on the clothing companies in Newcastle a number of media reports have followed up on the story. Herewith some of the newspaper articles.

Union acts to halt factory closures

http://www.fin24.com/Business/Union-acts-to-halt-factory-closures-20100830

Low wages put 8 000 clothing jobs at risk
http://news.google.com/news/url?sa=t&fd=R&usg=AFQjCNGFQYDnWFPZrrqmEiAwS_h6uRXx5w&url=http://www.busrep.co.za/index.php?fSectionId%3D561%26fArticleId%3D5619915

Clothing factory closures spread
http://www.busrep.co.za/index.php?fSectionId=552&fArticleId=5624816

Free State intervenes in rag trade wages dispute
http://www.timeslive.co.za/business/article626950.ece/Free-State-intervenes-in-rag-trade-wages-dispute

Textiles get lifeline to boost jobs
Here is a paradox THE KwaZulu-Natal department of economic development and tourism has thrown a lifeline to retrenched workers from the textile industry - pumping a whopping R30million into it.
http://www.sowetanlive.co.za/news/2010/08/19/textiles-get-lifeline-to-boost-jobs

South African Clothing Union Responds to factory shut-downs

The South African Clothing Union Sactwu has responded to the closure of clothing companies in Newcastle.

The Newcastle clothing companies are closing their business operations in response to the recent action against non-compliant companies in the Newcastle area.

I feel that the current situation taking place in our clothing sector is at a pivotal juncture and unless all the parties concerned cannot find some equable solution the victims will not only be the workers who livelihoods who are now even more vulnerable but the entire South African apparel sector. The retailers who support local apparel manufacturers are no doubt watching this situation very closely. It is extremely vital that this volatile, emotional and sensitive issue is dealt with quickly and effectively in a collegial manner without having to resort to costly legal action. The stakeholders must look at the bigger picture. Maybe, there is a need to review the mandate of the Bargaining Council, maybe there is a need to speak to the workers. I am not advocating sweatshop wages or the exploitation of labour but if the percentage being paid to workers is relatively lower than the required Bargaining Council regulations and the employees of these factories are at least earning an income is this better than having no job because of the inflexible regulations?

PRESS RELEASE: IMMEDIATE

SACTWU RESPONSE ON CLOSURE OF NEWCASTLE CLOTHING COMPANIES.

The Southern African Clothing & Textile Workers’ Union (SACTWU) has taken note of the decision by the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce to close its member factories in the Newcastle, KZN area, in response to the compliance drive by the National Bargaining Council for the Clothing Manufacturing Industry.

We point out that this action amounts to an illegal lockout and have instructed our legal representatives to launch an urgent Labour Court legal application to rectify this unacceptable situation.

We have also noted the call by the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce for KZN Provincial Government intervention in the matter. In this regard,

the SACTWU General Secretary, has today written to the KZN MEC for Economic Development, Mr. Michael Mabuyakhulu, and pointed out the following SACTWU position:

“We have noted in today’s Business Report that the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce has resolved to close all its clothing companies, in response to the compliance drive by the National Bargaining Council for the Clothing Manufacturing Industry in South Africa.

We further note the Chamber’s call for provincial government intervention in the matter.

We write to advise that SACTWU is very concerned about this state of affairs and its impact on the creation and protection of jobs in the KZN Province, and nationally. Accordingly, we would not be opposed to a tri-partite engagement on the matter.

At the outset, we wish to state that will do anything within in our power to save and create jobs in the clothing, textile, leather and footwear sector.

We point out though that an engagement on the matter should take into account the policy positions agreed at last year’s KZN Province’s Economic Recovery and Jobs Summit, ,held on 6-7 August 2009.

In this regard, we recall that the following were some of the agreed Summit outcomes, for our industry:

• that the clothing, textile, leather and footwear (CTFL) industry is a vulnerable sector needing special support measures and, given its labour intensive nature, that steps must be taken to secure its future sustainability and growth;

• full respect for and observance of fair labour standards and national legislation is non-negotiable;

• the creation of a conducive environment to ensure compliance with bargaining council agreements for the industry, with health and safety standards and with the principle of decent work for all, especially for women who form the bulk of the sectoral labour force;

• the understanding of the key links in the value chain and the promotion of close interaction between them should be an important priority, but subject to the promotion of the principle of decent work and the promotion of a culture of labour law and tax compliance.

The general conclusion was that the KZN Provincial Government would be supportative of a campaign for Decent work in the Province.

We advise that we remain open to find, together with the National Bargaining Council for the Clothing Manufacturing Industry and your Ministry, a constructive solution to this very concerning situation.

We await suggestions from you on how to proceed with this matter.”

We now await a response from the MEC.

Issued by Andre Kriel

General Secretary

SACTWU

Newcastle’s clothing factories close their own doors in protest

South Africa
Breaking news by The ReDress Consultancy

Newcastle’s clothing factories close their own doors in protest

Following recent action taken against clothing manufacturers in Newcastle, KwaZulu-Natal by the National Bargaining Council, the companies decided late yesterday afternoon to close their operations indefinitely in protest.

Factory workers leaving a closed factory being watched by the police

The National Bargaining Council contends that these companies are paying their employees excessively low wages. The police were present at two factory sites yesterday when Writs of Execution were served on the companies. The factories were shut down and the staff told to leave the premises. A further two factories are to be closed this week.

Alex Liu, Chairman of the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce, said: “This is a no-win situation, but we have been forced to take this drastic, risky decision in the hope that a favourable solution can be found.”

Alex Liu

“The owners of these clothing companies are not foreigners,” said Liu. “We are nationalised South Africans; some of us are second-generation Chinese-South Africans. We have created nearly 8 000 jobs that sustain about 40 000 people in our surrounding communities. Many of our staff have been with us for a long time. Why would we purposely exploit our workers?”

According to Liu, the National Bargaining Council’s claim that the companies are paying their staff as little as R90 a week is groundless, and should be quantified. In clothing operations, wage structures differ according to posts, with a machinist earning more than cutter, who in turn earns more than a packer. “The Bargaining Council has not provided any proof of this claim, whereas we have evidence that we are paying our staff fair wages,” said Liu.

The Chamber’s attempts to hold talks with the Bargaining Council have proved fruitless. “We understand that the Bargaining Council is following its mandate,” says Liu, “and we do not want to fight with them. We want to find an equable solution, but to do this we must agree on the definition of a decent wage. Our clients are monitoring the situation in Newcastle very closely, and if our companies are shut down they will simply import.”

Clothing factory in Newcastle

Officials from Lesotho, Swaziland and Mozambique are courting Newcastle-based clothing companies to relocate their operations. Factory owners said that this is a feasible option, as labour is far cheaper in those countries than in South Africa. “Our hope is that by halting operations now, we can bring the Bargaining Council to the table with us, and we are doing this to demonstrate our loyalty to South Africa and to the wellbeing of our community,” says Liu.

Commenting on the risks and implications of the factory shut-downs, Ferdie Alberts, Director of Economic Development at the Newcastle Municipality, said: “It’s one thing to close factories, but it will be extremely difficult to replace them or regenerate these businesses. Newcastle has a 60% unemployment rate and we cannot afford thousands more people to lose their jobs.”

According to a World Bank report released earlier this month, South Africa’s labour wages in relation to productivity are the second highest of all emerging economies.

Written by Renato Palmi, The ReDress Consultancy
Photos: Renato Palmi

Cape Town Fashion Week

Can Lin Sampson’s critique of Cape Town Fashion Week “Naught Couture”, Sunday Times, August 22, 20120 be said to define some of the underlying issues that impedes tangible and sustainable development of South Africa’s fashion sector?


I will briefly unpack some of the issues made in the article and hope that they will create some critical dialogue. See below.

Naught Couture

Narcissism is on the hoof. Don't breath deeply in case you suffocate on flattery. This is the event where a self-referring set of fashionukkahs suck up to each other and shoot ego.

Some people have come to look at the clothes but most have come to look at each other.

There is a man wearing a horse-riding helmet over what looks like a Manchester United sock and a woman who is wearing a red splotchy outfit with fur that could be roadkill and girls with vermilion mouths slavering over cellphones. A girl proffers a hand that looks like the foot of a small bird to a man wearing a bathing cap with red curls attached. "You look genius," she says.

The place is filled with people who call themselves fashion bloggists (which means they get free tickets), who have very little idea of the history of fashion. When I mentioned The New Look to one, she had no idea I was talking about Dior's 1947 ground-breaking collection that changed the face of fashion forever.

Trend is treacherous because it always wrong- foots you. Many of the people here left home thinking they were the cat's whiskers, only to discover they were dogs' breakfasts. The best dressed are black men in perfectly cut suits. Really good fashion should give one a sense of reflection and resonance. The front row traditionally reserved for fashion editors doesn't inspire confidence. One woman is dressed as the Princess of Cooch Behar.

The fashion shows themselves pass in a blur, some lovely stuff and a lot of malignant plumage. However, there are designers who loosen a bolt. I loved Suzaan Heyns for her Voortrekker meets French Resistance fighter look with its perfect craftsmanship and lack of compromise. The boots were from Mr Price with the laces taken out and the tops turned back. Each outfit was described. Jayden wearing powder-blue suspender details is described as someone who "does not like monkeys, not one bit" and is studying to be a Montessori kindergarten teacher.

I bet there'll be a lot of fathers enrolling their children at her school.

Kluk CGDT went for a clamour of diverse references, with a brass bed, a child, and a backdrop featuring the obligatory two retro cars. They published a special edition newspaper hyping their own brilliance and comparing themselves to Dior and Chanel.

Ruff Tung, the name should have warned me, had a go at a sort of Avocado Ritz, Durban Beach Front, white polyester with gold accessories look. It was actionable.

Jenny Le Roux, Queen of Cape Town fashion and owner of Habits, says: "Stefania Morland's show was beautiful." Sadly, I missed it.

Broadly speaking, the themes throughout seem to ricochet between schoolgirl and slut. There was a lot of Haute Meisie, grown women dressed as little girls, which makes one wonder about the sexual proclivities of men.

David West, with his run-up-by-loving-hands-at-home look, tried another old trick - using models that were old, fat or looked as if they had a touch of Asperger's syndrome. His clothes looked exactly like the ones my mother made me on her old Singer sewing machine and which were directly responsible for my never getting a rich husband.

Throughout, everything seemed to be just the wrong length, too short or too long, and there was very little good tailoring, the bedrock of couture, or perfect accessorising. A rosette on the side of the head just makes you look like a gymkhana pony.

The whole thing retched up the question: Isn't it about time we rethought the fashion show? What are they for? Are they mere entertainment platforms? If so, we need more than Julie Andrews singing A Few of My Favourite Things. Are they to seduce buyers? If, as market research suggests, the average woman buyer is 40-plus, is it likely she is going to pony up good money to look like a member of a charismatic church choir in the Congo?

People have tried over the years to make runway shows more companionable, more user friendly, but in the end few of us have anything in common with a 2m-tall girl with arms that look as if they could be pulled out of their sockets. Who invented that extraordinary walk, an orthopaedic hiccup with emphasis on pelvic expressionism, what journalist Tanya Gold writing in the Telegraph calls the "here-are-my-genitals mince". Who said that all models have to stride around looking furious as if they had just been ticketed for speeding.

Are we as woman credited with so little imagination that we can't visualise what a two-bit bikini within a float of tulle will look like on someone who has the body of a semi-circular table? Can we still be taken in by cheap disguises such as parasols, confetti and balloons and a slew of indiscriminate visuals and lofty Nietzsche-inspired labelling: My fashion can only be determined in the context of art. The words "free spirit" and "timeless" are used ubiquitously.

And another thing, where were all the established designers this year? Habits, Hip Hop, Errol Arendz.

Gavin Rajah, the designer who started Cape Town Fashion Week, says: "It's time for a huge overhaul of where fashion is going in this country. I am all for supporting young designers, but it is silly to put on inexperienced designers and expect them to survive. Fashion shows are not entertainment platforms; they are for selling clothes."

Most people believed the Joburg fashion week knocked the socks off Cape Town, where the shows seem to flag the fact that we are far from a united nation. Perhaps it's time to stop mau-mauing the fashionistas and produce good clothes that brush the wings of beauty and knowledge and are not benisons to the quirky god of the avant-garde.

I said to the man sitting next to me: "So what did you think?" "Of what?" he asked. "The fashions," I answered. "Oh," he said, "I didn't come to look at the clothes. I like the girls' bums."

By Lin Simpson, Sunday Times, Life Style,

August 22, 2010

My response:

1. I have been advocating for many years that the entire model of fashion weeks need to be reviewed and restructured. This is old.

2. The event organizers are really event management companies. Their goal is to sell tickets and get bums on the seat.

3. It is up to the designers, the real stakeholders involved in the sector, who are trying to create viable businesses, who have to deal with various outside influences that have either a direct or indirect consequence on both their business and the industry to drive South Africa’s fashion sector.

4. I am curious to know if any designers who did participate have forged business opportunities with the retailers who came on board.

5. I have always advocated quality instead of quantity. Who are the hundreds who attend these events … are they buying or are they there just “to be seen?”

6. As for the “fashion bloggers,” as a designer I would be weary, who are they … where are they … if they misunderstood the philosophy behind a designer’s collection they may have the potential to do a lot of damage. Do they understand the complexity of the industry and do they contribute to critical debate and knowledge? Having said that, there are those outside of the main stream of media that are doing fantastic reviews. I think there should be some criteria that must be met for “fashion journalists” to gain entry to the media rooms. They can review, comment outside the parameters of the events media space.- it’s (for now) a free media but to give them entry as certified journalists without some form of evaluating who they are can be dangerous. Or am I wrong?

7. I feel that designers are not initiators but merely followers. They have the capacity, the power to change the status quo.

8. Sampson asks an important question …where were all the names we know? We have to ask why they are not participating. Of course there may be legitimate reasons but these questions need to be explored.

9. The past few years have seen a surge of a new generation of “fashion designers” which presents a situation that has to be explored, managed and tackled. Do the “old names” try and hang on using these existing spaces to showcase or do they create their own space and allow the young fashion blood to dominate the existing fashion weeks as their platform?

The Durban Lesbian & Gay Community & Health Centre: Fashion Style

The Durban Lesbian & Gay Community & Health Centre

Fshion Style

The LGBT Youth Wellbeing Programme under the auspicious of the Durban Lesbian & Gay Community & Health Centre held a fashion extravaganza at the Edward Hotel on 30 July 2010.

Under the direction of the unflappable Siphokazi Nombande the fashion show was a feast of colour, beautiful people and fantastic designs. The event was introduced by Sekelo Zondi and the exquisite Miss SA 2009 First Princess Matapa Maila who wore a stunning little black dress created as a collective by the designers who participated in the 2009 event. This stunning dress will be auctioned off at a future event to raise funds for sustainable LGBT projects.

Siphokazi Nombande said, “The objective of the Sivunule Ngesishweshwe-KZN LGBT Fashion and Hair Show is to provide a platform for young people to engage and undertake an individual journey of exploration. What we will see tonight is some of the best emerging fashion talent.” Consisting of two events, the hat show and the fashion show, the participant designers demonstrated that this Durban community is awash with creative talent.

Ten designers working within the parameters of their brief which was to use in a creative way the traditional textile ‘isishweshwe’ showed off head-turning outfits. The judges were tasked to look for visual impact, styling, construction and commercial potential.

Nombande explained, “The designers were given ‘isishweshwe’ fabric to design both female and male garments comprising of causal, formal and street-wise wear. The fashion designers were provided with white golf hats which they had to turn into show-stoppers and they were tasked to work in collaboration with the hair stylist ensuring that the hair creations complimented the garments and accessories.”

After intense deliberation amongst the judges the results were announced that it was designers Mathonsi Mzwandile, Mlambo Muzi and Khanyile Mthobisi as the over-all winners. The thrilled and very animated designers received fantastic prizes consisting of hair products and an over-locker sewing machine.

The dynamic and inspirational Centre Manager Nonhlanhla Mkhize said, “Designers from this community are light workers in the world of fashion, beauty and style. This is you world; it is one industry that we will never be marginalized or feel like an outcast.”

Written by The ReDress Consultancy

The Durban Lesbian & Gay Community & Health Centre (a project of the KZN Coalition for Gay & Lesbian Equality) offers a safe and secure space for the lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender and intersex communities of Durban and KwaZulu-Natal

Tel: 031 301-2145

Fax: 031 301-2147Email: info@gaycentre.org.za

http://www.gaycentre.org.za/about.asp

Centre Manager: Nonhlanhla Mkhize

Email: mc@gaycentre.org.za

Is the Vodacom Durban July Fashion Experience vulgar and a farce?

A Durban designer has described the fashion events that revolve around the Vodacom July as being vulgar and a farce and only Durban designers should be allowed to participate in this event. What do you think?

Durban designer Gideon has lambasted the Vodacom Durban July, calling it "vulgar", "a farce", and saying it needs "new blood to take hold of the fashion reigns". He is calling for a return to elegance.

Having garnered just about all the of the major South African fashion accolades, Durban-designer Gideon is an industry force to be reckoned with. This week in a letter to the editor he voiced his concerns about the Vodacom Durban July. The woman at its helm is Durban model boss Tiffany Prior, whose connections to the Durban Designer Collection, and now the July, have made her instrumental in growing young design talent in the city.

Despite not attending the event this year, but having featured on a number of occasions, Gideon wrote, "What I am about to put forward is not a personal attack on anyone but rather my overview of what I feel is the downfall of the elegance of fashion at the July for the past few years and the rise of both vulgar and "carnival- like" shows, judges and winners."

Prior said while respecting the designer immensely she found his criticism, without actually having attended the event, presumptuous and contradictory.

"Being a Durban designer, I feel proud to be from Durban and hold events such as this one very close to my heart. The July was always South Africa’s most elegant and sophisticated race day, however in the past few years I feel it has degenerated into a farce on fashion," said Gideon.

He said he believes the designers featured should all be from Durban with the exception of one guest designer from out of town to ensure that the event builds the Durban industry first.

This year’s Invited Designer Showcase included four out of town designers: David Tlale, RjKay Creations, Kluk CGDT and Abigail Betz.

He writes, "Is the July not here to recognise Durban’s own fashion powerhouses with all the incredible talent available here? Have we lost our self worth by having other designers flown in and accommodated in Durban to make us look better?"

Well no, not according to the title sponsor, retorts Prior.

"It is Vodacom’s directive that the Vodacom Durban July Fashion Experience offer a national platform to designers," she said.

"It on their directive that this event embraces fashion students and designers from all 5 of their main regions. However, I am ever mindful that it is the Vodacom "Durban" July and therefore a large portion of our pre-race day fashion event finalists are from Durban".

Gold Circle’s event’s marketing manager Ken Tweddell agrees. He said it is important to remember that the fashion only follows the July.

"The fashion element of the Vodacom Durban July exists because of Africa’s greatest horseracing event, the Vodacom Durban July, the continent’s premier horserace and not the other way around.

"The horserace is followed nationally and that is why the fashion is also national, but like attendance at the horserace, there is greater fashion participation locally," said Tweddell.

"It is no secret that we aggressively promote both the fashion and the horseracing aspects specifically for the sake of the horseracing event. If the fashion industry locally or nationally can also benefit from this promotion then we at Gold Circle are pleased and the tradition of the fashion association with the race will build upon itself annually."

Industry

Fashion commentator Renato Palmi says the mandate is for the better.

He said, "If the July was restricted only to Durban based designers, then Durban designers will have no right to participate in similar events held in other provinces."

The competition for local designers from other provinces forces Durban designers to be more innovative and prevents them from becoming complacent.

"It would be unhealthy for Durban designers to have their own inner competition around the July."

Palmi said, "It is a narrow minded view for any local designer to begrudge the inclusion of designers from provinces outside Durban, it will reflect poorly on the Durban fashion community.

"The fashion sector is still very fragmented with egos, gate-keeping and territorial control and we cannot, should not allow this mind-set to intrude on the July."

Judges

While Palmi said transparency on how winners were drawn might help the matter, Gideon said the judges themselves were not credible.

"There are no credible judges now, in the past fashion editors, stylists and out of town fashionistas would judge, not local celebrities and designers."

"We can’t have local judges judging local people," he said in reference to the race day panel which included David Tlale, who has shown twice at New York Fashion Week and is highly considered in South African fashion circles, and from Durban: designer and fashion lecturer Terrence Bray, named by British Vogue as the label to buy in SA; designer Francois Vedemme, who is an international name as well, Tatum Kheswar, Top Billing presenter, former Miss SA and a fashionista of note as well as Danny Moodliar, who was the producer of the past Durban Fashion Week and regularly represents designers in India.

While the fashion clout of these individuals is unquestionable, Madelain Clark, a Durban designer who is a regular winner at the July, says rather than fashion backgrounds the judges need to perhaps have distance. She said her gripe was that, "It’s pretty much the same judges every year. It’s a cliché that many feel on the outside off. What’s more is you find that designers who are lecturers will have a bias to their institution’s students, which is why like the Met judges should have nothing to do with the contestants."

Designer Leigh Schubert called the comments ludicrous. "Many of the designers judging the fashion competition were once junior designers on the same stage who are now showing internationally; they understand what it is that these emerging designers need to establish themselves. "When it comes to judging an event that Durban can be proud of, with national standing, why should we not have Durban judges and show off our credibility."

Prior said there are many levels to judging and sweeping statements were unfair.

"The Young Designer Award, which is national, was headed by Lucille Booysen, convenor of SA Fashion Week and a doyenne of South African fashion with decades of experience. "Our race day panel are the people who set the benchmark and they are the people young designers aspire to. Consist judges such Schubert, who Gideon says he holds in high regard in his letter, and respected journalist and radio personality, Terence Pillay, who Gideon dresses were among them."

Elegance

Another gripe highlighted by Gideon in his letter is the issue of what constitutes fashion. He said, "There is a fine line between avante garde and over-the-top. By all means have fun, but know that flower pots on heads which graced front pages the day after the races are not fashion. But beyond the media representations, what often wins as most elegant couple is not elegant and by bequeathing these garments as elegant we are distorting the meaning of fashion, perpetuating misconceptions and actually hurting our industry."

"We have all had enough of feathers, boa’s, beads and bedazzlers," he writes, "...elegance and timeless sophistication need to be injected and fast so as to keep any hope alive of the July continuing."

While many will agree with Gideon when he writes that elegance and sophistication do not equal OTT and avant-garde, these garments are part and parcel of the day’s spectacle, said Twedell, as the event caterers to a broad spectrum of people.

"Elegance, like style is highly subjective," explains Schubert.

"Durban has a diverse range of cultures and you can spot all the style stereotypes on race day. Just as how different groups attire differs in wedding dresses and matric dance dresses, they do on race day. Right down to the fabrications, these stereotypes are amplifies and as designers we can not change that. We may not like what makes the competition, but a large amount of people will love it.

South African Fashion Week director Lucilla Booyzen’s said although the industry can not change tastes, it can guide it.

"Horse racing is not a fashion platform at this point in time so you will get all tastes. We need to see it for what it is rather than try to turn it into a fashion week.

"However, the competitions are vital in setting an example, which the public will inevitably draw on.

"Designers understand chic and by being apart of the process they can ensure that the brief brings us back to elegance," she said. "But lets not underestimate the competitions and lets not draw the event out of context. This is a stellar event and as it progresses the competitions will demonstrate the different between costume or fancy dress and design. You’ll find that when the competition winners are chic, the crowd will emulate them – as everybody wants to be like the winners."

Written by The Mercury Reporter

Friday, 20 August 2010

China's clothing exports grow

China's textile and clothing exports are expected to increase 20% to $186bn this year, according to local media reports today (11 August), reaching record levels despite forecasts of slower growth in the second half of the year.

Citing Zhang Xi'an, secretary-general of China Chamber of Commerce for Import & Export of Textiles (CCCT), the China Daily newspaper said exports will be higher than before the financial crisis.
The country's textile and clothing exports peaked at $185.2bn in 2008, but fell 9.8% to $167bn last year.
The latest data from China's Customs shows textile and garments rose 27% in the first seven months this year to $109.67bn, the paper said, compared with the same period last year.
However, export growth is likely to slow in the second half of this year due to higher raw material and labour costs and tighter margins

Source: juststyle.

South Africa shuts down sweatshops

Comments from The ReDress Consultancy

Should South African clothing companies be shut down because they are non-compliant?

The South African clothing Bargaining Council is on a drive to shut down non-registered clothing manufacturers. This can have an adverse effect on fashion designers who outsource to small unregistered CMTs.

The clothing union seems to be playing games saying on the one hand that job protection and fair wage is important but on the other hand they seem to be reluctant to take any firm action against non-complaint clothing operators. Why is the clothing union, Sactwu not being honest in their position on non-registered companies? The longer they procrastinate in stating their position the worse the situation will get.

The question: Is a job, even with a low wage better than none?

Fashion designers, clothing companies and those interested in the development and sustainability of South Africa’s clothing, textile and fashion sector (the consumer) need to speak out. Act now. Use social media platforms, the ReDress Consultancy to add your voice to this important and critical debate.

Durban clamps down on sweatshops

Nine Durban clothing factories were shut down this week for paying workers well below the minimum wage of R334 a week, as part of a national crackdown on "sweatshops".

Nine other clothing factories in the city also face closure, unless the owners cough up the correct wages, including backpay. Their names have not been divulged.

Leon Deetlefs, compliance officer at the Clothing Industry National Bargaining Council, said 385 clothing manufacturers in South Africa were not paying the minimum wage and were not complying with other requirements.

A significant number of these are in KwaZulu-Natal, where up to 47 percent of clothing factories are contravening the minimum wage law.

"This is unacceptable, especially because about 99 percent of clothing factories in the Western Cape pay the minimum wage," Deetlefs said.

Writs of execution had also been served on factories in Bloemfontein, Kimberley and other areas.

The Labour Court orders in effect shut down factories and attach assets until owners give their workers backpay.

The extent of the crackdown came to light following an incident last week in Newcastle, where workers, standing shoulder to shoulder with a factory owner, barred the local sheriff from serving a writ and attaching the factory's assets.

Deetlefs said 47 clothing factories in Newcastle were contravening the law.

"We planned on serving writ of executions to 15 of the worst offending companies in the Newcastle area last week.

"These were companies that were paying workers below R200 a week. In our inspections this year we even found two of factories in the area that were paying workers as little as R90 and R99 a week. This is unacceptable."

Thursday's incident, where the sheriff also received death threats, meant the serving of the writs had to be abandoned.

"The people who threatened the life of the female sheriff were interfering with the duties of an officer of the law. Since then the lives of four council staff have also been threatened. But we will not tolerate this unlawful behaviour," Deetlefs said.

The council, sheriff's office, SA Police Service, Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce and union are to meet on Monday.

"The meeting is about letting us do our jobs and getting the sheriff to serve the writ of execution on those non-complaint factories in Newcastle," Deetlefs said.

"We will talk and explain the situation to the affected parties on Monday, so that the sheriff can go ahead with the execution. If the threats continue, then we will call in the police."

Alex Liu, chairman of the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce, said: "It's very unfair to see these sort of reports that Chinese-owned factories are paying such low wages, because it creates a bad image of our businesspeople.

"We are creating jobs in South Africa and I don't believe some factories are paying R90 a week. Who would work for that amount of money?" he said.

"Speaking for the members of our chamber, we have worked out that on average machinists working in their factories are earning between R250 and R350 a week.

"Several factory owners are paying just below the minimum wage, but that's because of issues related to provident funds. We did not agree to that and the council enforced it, so there is still disagreement.

"We are not running sweatshops in Newcastle. If there are any Chinese factories that are paying R90 a week, we want the council to tell us who they are.

"As a chamber we will not tolerate such ridiculous wages for workers.

Reference: By Suren Naidoo, The Mercury August 13, 2010

Union, firms in a spin over basic wage

Clothing manufacturers and trade union Sactwu remain at loggerheads over action against hundreds of non-compliant manufacturers that are ignoring minimum wages and thereby threatening "decent, compliant" jobs.

Manufacturers have agreed on wage increases of 9.95% in non-metro areas and 6.5% in metro areas for the financial year starting September, but the understanding is that manufacturers and Sactwu will agree on a new wage-negotiating model by the end of the year, Johann Baard, the executive director of Apparel Manufacturers of SA, said.

Alternatively, non-compliant manufacturers will have to be shut down, Baard said.

The National Bargaining Council has identified 385 non-complaint manufacturers with 16500 workers countrywide. These manufacturers do not pay the agreed minimum wages, and the total outstanding wage bill for underpaid wages last year was R70-million, compliance officer Leon Deetlefs said.

In a test case for Cosatu's commitment to decent work, member union Sactwu has so far resisted any meaningful action against non-compliant manufacturers, who pay as little as R90 a week for qualified machinists, instead of the R334 required in certain non-metro areas.

In metro areas, the wage is around R800 a week and non-compliance creates a competitive advantage for rogue firms.

Baard said if no action was taken against non-compliant manufacturers, the industry would sacrifice "decent, compliant jobs in metro areas for non-compliant jobs in non-metro areas".

''If that is the model that the government, Sactwu and Cosatu wish to see unfold, then they should just say so, and our (compliant) members can also shut up shop and move to the non-metro areas," Deetlefs said.

According to Sactwu, 5 240 people lost their jobs in the first six months of the year, and there are now 109 500 people employed in the clothing, footwear, textiles and leather industries. More than 206 000 people were employed by these industries at the end of 2002.

Last week, owners and workers at a Newcastle factory threatened to kill a sheriff when she tried to execute a High Court order to attach assets, in order to settle their backlog in wages.

Deetlefs said that writs of execution would be served on another 55 factories in Botshabelo, Kimberley, Durban, Bloemfontein, Ladysmith, Johannesburg and Qwa Qwa over the next three weeks.

Workers in Botshabelo in the Free State, where 17 companies together owe R8-million for last year's underpayment in wages, also blocked a sheriff from attaching assets this week, Deetlefs said.

Ref: Timeslive, 14, August 2010

The Consumer Protection Act and the apparel industry

The ReDress Consultancy comments on the Consumer Protection Act

The Consumer Protection Act (CPA) comes into effect on 25 October 2010, and while companies of all sizes scramble to adjust their marketing, branding and promotional material whilst ensuring that their suppliers meet the stringent requirements it seems to me that the clothing industry from large retail chain-stores, private boutiques, independent designers and manufacturers either feel that the CPA does not affect them or they are  ignorant to the content and consequences if they are not complaint.

The CPA gives unprecedented voice and power to the consumer and holds not only the seller but the manufacturer, importer and distributor liable for any harm caused as a consequence of the supply and sale of any unsafe goods. What this means is that all the players in the value-chain of a product can be liable for any harm caused to a consumer if there is inadequate instructions or warnings that informs consumers about potential hazards.

So what does this have to do with clothing you may ask?

Many items of clothing contain dangerous chemicals that can cause harm to humans. In June this year it was reported that clothing for children imported from China to India contained excessive chemical contents that could harm the wearer. An Indian study revealed that only 53% of apparel products imported from China met the required safety standards. Some of the garments surveyed had excessively high levels of formaldehyde.

The chemical formaldehyde is used in garments as an embalming fluid to give the garment a permanent press look. The chemical can cause eye and nose irritation as well as create skin rashes, nausea, fatigue and cancer.

In March, Reuters, reported the seizure of brands such as Versace, Hugo Boss and Hermes in China after tests showed some “were [of] poor quality and others potentially dangerous.” The items tested by the Zhejiang Administration for Industry and Commerce were imported into China from France, Italy, Turkey, Vietnam, India, South Korea, Egypt and Romania ranged from T-shirts to skirts and jeans sporting fashion labels such as Dolce & Gabbana, Tommy Hilfiger and Zara. The Zhejiang Administration said in a statement that one pair of jeans had excess levels of formaldehyde in them.

Returning to the CPA, my interpretation of Act and the consequence for South Africa’s clothing, textile and fashion sector is that the industry will need to establish more informative labelling on all garments produced. This applies to all foreign companies exporting and selling garments in South Africa as well as South African apparel importers. Werksmans Attorneys stated, “If a defective or incorrectly labelled product were to cause harm or injury to a South African consumer, the foreign manufacturer could become a co-defendant together with the local retailer or supplier in product liability litigation.”

Garments will need to carry information on the chemical make-up of the garments and highlight possible harmful reactions these chemicals may have on consumers.

The apparel industry will need to have effective risk-management strategies in place and have stringent quality control across the entire value-chain. Any business that fails to comply with the regulations of the Act could be fined one million Rand or 10% of its annual turnover, depending whichever is the greater. It will be the right of the consumer to ask any retailer about the chemicals that may have been used in the manufacturing of garments and the onus will be with the said retailer to supply that information.

Link to the CPA: www.consumerprotectionactmadeasy.co.za

Written by Renato Palmi
August 2010

South African garment workers' scare off police

South Africa, Durban.

Rag workers threaten sheriff

Aug 8, 2010

Workers at a Newcastle clothing factory on Thursday threatened to kill the local sheriff and to set cars and buildings alight should assets be attached to pay outstanding wages.

Leon Deetlefs, national compliance manager at the National Bargaining Council for the clothing industry, said the sheriff was acting on a writ of execution against Wintong, one of 47 clothing manufacturers in Newcastle not complying with minimum wages and labour conditions, as required by law.

Deetlefs said some Newcastle factories were paying qualified machinists as little as R90 a week, instead of the minimum R334. The Newcastle sheriff wanted to attach assets at these noncompliant factories on Thursday in an attempt to settle outstanding pay, ranging from R650000 to R1.5-million.

"The factories did not comply with the bargaining council rules, are not paying minimum wages and failed to pay back-pay owed to workers," Deetlefs said.

However, staff at Wintong - the first factory visited by the sheriff - joined owners in threating the sheriff and later also incited workers at surrounding factories.

The police were called in, but they had insufficient people to deal with the matter, Deetlefs said. "People's lives were in danger, and the decision was taken to withdraw. The law could not take its course."

A meeting would be held this week between the bargaining council and the Newcastle Chinese Chamber of Commerce, which had been to court several times over the past few years over its members' failure to comply with conditions set by the bargaining council, Deetlefs said.

"An intolerable consequence of noncompliant manufacturing activity is that such employers enjoy significant competitive cost advantages against those employers who are compliant with the collective agreements of the National Bargaining Council," said Johann Baard, executive director of the Apparel Manufacturers of South Africa (AMSA).

He said the situation not only "translates into real and direct prejudice to compliant employer parties, but also jeopardises the job security of our members' employees who are employed under conditions of 'decent work'".

AMSA and the clothing union Sactwu have had discussions over noncompliance. The union fears further job losses if minimum labour conditions are enforced.

Reference timeslive

Question: Do garment workers' have a right to protect their jobs in non-compliant companies even if they are not being paid according to regulations?

Clothing union supports non-compliant clothing operations

South Africa’s clothing and textile workers union (SACTWU) supports non-compliant clothing companies.

One of the many complex challenges that South Africa’s clothing and textile industries have to contend with is in regard to compliant and non-compliant companies. It seems that the South African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (SACTWU) have now declared their support for non-compliant companies.

The union has refused to sanction the writs of executions against non-compliant clothing companies by the National Bargaining Council for clothing manufacturers. Not only does SACTWUs stand seems to be in contradiction to their mandate of enforcing fair labour practices for their constituency but their actions will have an adverse and crippling effect on the entire clothing industry.

In KwaZulu-Natal an industry organization that claims to represent non-registered clothing CMTS says it has 150 companies on its membership representing 8000 employees. Bargaining Council (BC) data reflects a total of 63 compliant companies in KwaZulu-Natal.

In 2005, 877 CMTs employing 24 000 clothing workers were to have writs of execution issues against them for failing to comply with the Bargaining Council agreements. In September 2005 the registrar of labour declared The National Bargaining Council for the clothing industry [as being] representative of employees in the industry.

SACTWU said in March 2003, the Bargaining Council had “offered these employers two years to catch up with the applicable rates.” In the same report SACTWU stated, “We are dealing with employers who continue; openly and defiantly flout the law and who ignore the reasonable assistance the council (BC) has offered.” (Reference: “Reporter misrepresents workers’ situation in the clothing sector.” Business Report, 12 April 2005).

In 2005, Andre Kriel from SACTWU in response to a letter published in the Argus newspaper (17 March 2005) which claimed that the existence of the National Bargaining Council was the reason why jobs were being shed said that such statements were “ridiculous and unsubstantiated.” In the same response Kriel stated that the union represented more than 80% of workers in the industry and their (the workers) mandate to the union is “they want an even stronger Bargaining Council.”

The non-compliant companies (in KZN) claim that the Bargaining Council is not representative of the industry as its members are mostly larger companies. In 2006 the National Bargaining Council for the clothing manufacturing industry said that 91% of compliant (registered) companies were SMME’s which makes the clothing BC representative of the industry. In reviewing 2010 statistics I concur with the statement as there are complaint companies in KwaZulu-Natal that have as low as eight employees.

The question to ask is why some CMTs that are compliant are managing in a tough economic climate to sustain their business while those that are non-compliant are claiming that BC regulations is exacerbating their tenuous situation?

Furthermore, claims of intimidation by the BC by these non-compliant companies must be verified by independent monitors. In 2008 I approached the organization that claims to represent non-complaint CMTs in KZN to do an independent audit in regard to their claims. The organization never responded.

The about turn of the union is puzzling and at most very worrisome.

The union’s decision to undermine the BC will create further imbalances within the local industry as non-compliant companies that flout labour laws are in a stronger position to offer preferential pricing to the market compared to compliant companies. In essence this means buyers from South African retailers will seek out these companies (they already are) with the confidence that they now have the backing of the union to drive down prices even further to enhance their profit margins. The utilization of non-compliant companies allows an escape for the retailers to seek more of their procurement off-shore when these non-compliant companies fail to deliver citing the reason for this decision because South African companies do not have the ability or capacity to meet their requirements.

Furthermore, the union’s decision, to support non-compliant companies directly contradicts statements made by Andre Kriel who recently placed part of the blame for Seardel’s decision to close the Intimate Apparel division on Woolworth because of Woolworth’s refusal to “up the prices it paid.”

The union stated that if Intimate Apparel does close it would have ‘disastrous consequences, especially taking into account the current depressed economic circumstances and the recent wave of job losses.”

Won’t the decision by SACTWU result in further closures and job losses of compliant companies?

When Seardel announced the closure of Frame Textiles which affected 1400 workers the company stated that non-compliance of local competitors was one of the contributors to it having to shut down the textile mill.

The decision by the union could lead to the dismantling of the Bargaining Council as compliant companies will be forced to disengage from the council. Furthermore, the decision by the union, greatly undermines their position within the industry, as they will have no right to demand pay increase and labour compliance when they have actively sided with companies that contravene South Africa’s labour regulations.

Click here to read about non-compliant companies in KZN.