Author: Renato Palmi
5 April 2010, South Africa
Recently, I led a group of fashion design students from
Linea Academy on a field research exercise to investigate apparel labelling compliance, quality of clothing and comparative pricing. The results are interesting, and indicate a need for follow-up by both the South African apparel and textile industry sectors and the Department of Trade and Industry.
Apparel Label Regulations
The South African Government issued a
notice announcing that as from the 15th April 2008, labelling of all goods to clarify “Country of Origin” in terms of the Merchandise Act 17 of 1941 would be enforced.
To ensure compliance with these regulations, the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) and the South African Revenue Services (SARS) warned that they would randomly detain consignments of goods for checking, and would assign officials to carry out surprise inspections at retail outlets. If apparel was found not to meet the label regulations, companies and individuals (including independent fashion designers) could be liable to a R5 000 fine per item, or face imprisonment for three years, or both.
The regulations state that all items of merchandise falling under the Act are required be bear a label indicating the country of origin and whether imported textiles were used to make them, the fibre content and care instructions. An extension of the Act prohibits retailers from claiming that merchandise is "Made in South Africa" purely on the basis of the merchandise having undergone any reconstruction.
Field Findings
We inspected a range of garments at the popular Young Designers Emporium (YDE) boutique at Durban’s Pavilion shopping mall. YDE, owned by national retail chain Truworths, was created to provide retail space for local designers.
Despite the YDE website’s claim that the brand is renowned for its window campaigns, their visual displays offered no marketing material promoting local fashion design; there was nothing to encourage consumers to support locally designed and made-in-South Africa apparel. One would have hoped for – at the very least – designers’ bio-sketches to be showcased in the store; this feature is widely accepted nowadays as fundamental to buy-local campaigning, and critical for bridging and bonding the market with both the individual designer and the industry sector as a whole.
All the YDE garments we examined bore a "Made in South Africa" label; however, many garments had no labelling identifying the fabric content or whether the textiles used were local or imported.
As one student noted: "The brands I looked at had swing-tags with 'Made in' labelling, but none showed the fabric content or the origin of the textiles used." We observed that, of those garments that did identify the source of the textiles, all were imported.
The students found that several privately owned boutiques situated in the same mall are violating the labelling regulations.
Sifting through the racks of garments in one shop, a student found that "there were no care labels, and on some clothing, no labels at all. If there was a label, it read either ‘Made in China’ or ‘Made in Thailand’. At another private boutique, a student noted that "the clothing had no labels at all, and some garments didn't even have a price tag."
One student, who examined clothing at a boutique owned by an apparel group at the Gateway Shopping mall in Durban, said the only disappointment was finding an item labelled "Designed in South Africa – Made in Hong Kong." Tabulating her data on 10 garments from three retail chains, another student found that six items were made in South Africa, five of which had been made with imported fabric.
Make everything here!
We should all be disturbed that retailers are not bothering to comply with the labelling regulations. It could be that this dismissal arises from an attitude expressed by one respondent in a 2008 research enquiry I conducted on this issue: "Why bother? Government will do nothing about enforcing these new rules."
According to the DTI, the implementation of the label regulations was not intended to make life difficult for the designers or the apparel sector in general, but to regulate illegal imports and promote the purchase of clothing that is designed and made in South Africa.
It is imperative that both the Department of Trade and Industry and the textile and apparel industry sector, in collaboration with the South African Clothing and Textiles Workers' Union, act upon evidence of this nature. If these findings are ignored and little attempt is made to enforce the regulations, the considerable money and time spent on research, debates, workshops and interaction between government and industry, as well as the formulation of new industry policy, become farcical. Both government and industry should collaborate to ensure compliance at the retail juncture of the apparel and textile value-chain. If not, the work done to ensure constructive development and sustainability at the level of manufacturing will be, literally and figuratively, un-stitched.
In developing countries, the textile sector is recognised as an important platform for economic development and job creation. The South African textile industry continues be under stress, with textile companies either collapsing or retrenching staff, and this undermines the South African government's drive for job creation.
The prevalent finding from this small, localised field exercise was that retailers are selling apparel that is "Made in South Africa from imported fabrics". If local textile manufacturers wish to recapture the domestic market, this poses a serious question for the Textile Federation.