South African men’s fashion starting to strut its stuff

South African men’s fashion starting to strut its stuff

SOUTH African men’s fashion is starting to come into its own even though most local men still prefer to shop from the selections available in retail stores, say fashion designers.

Local designer Fred Eboka says that opportunity is part of the problem: “It seems there are only so many occasions that offer men the privilege of dressing up. And, for the most part, a lot of South African men are not looking for the right fit or shade.”

Eboka says the country’s younger generation are the ones gravitating toward European trends, which include fitted jackets and skinny jeans.

“Those with discerning taste will always stand out. Interestingly, among our black youth, you will find most stylish men on the periphery of the townships.”

Eboka says the demise of the South African tailoring industry is a disappointment: “We used to have the infrastructure to create fine garments, but most companies are simply downsizing now.”

Renato Palmi, a clothing and textile researcher based in Durban, says the men’s clothing market is “relatively small” in South Africa.

“The fashion market for women definitely dominates the local industry. It is evident in the fact that our big retailers generally carry only a limited selection of men’s wear,” Palmi said.

He says that only a small proportion of menswear is sold in boutiques across the country.

“But with an emerging economy and a growing clientele with a discerning eye, this seems to be changing,” says local designer Gavin Rajah.

“Most of our men buy clothing from the mass retailers but in a country with such a strong entrepreneurial spirit a growing need for communicating professionalism through garments has emerged,” he says.

Rajah says that for men “sartorial tailoring is all about the politics of dressing”.

“In business a certain dress code is acceptable and the truth is people are starting to pay attention to the way they groom themselves.”

As evidenced by the GQ Best Dressed Men of the Year awards, the term old-fashioned is not an anachronism for the sartorial choices of the young generation.

Seth Rotherham, a Cape Townbased blogger on GQ’s bestdressed list, says he owns two pairs of GH Bass penny loafers, which can be worn with “literally anything”. His wardrobe assets include a tailor-made black suit, tailor-made shirts from Collar and Cuff and a skinny black tie.

Meanwhile Tyrone Arendse, a Johannesburg-based banker, owns a leather biker jacket that used to belong to his dad. He sees himself as personally responsible for the trend of introducing skinny jeans to muscular men of colour.

GQ editor Craig Tyson says that while fashion is seasonal and cyclical, style is about attitude.

“It’s useful to keep an eye on trends, but a stylish man is no slave to fashion. It’s all about being comfortable with who you are and finding your own look.”

By Florence de Vries

Published on the web by Business Report on October 18, 2010.

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